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Smailholm Tower

22/11/2018

2 Comments

 
Picture
Smailholm Tower in the Scottish Borders
​Smailholm is a classic example of a defensive tower house that was once common in the Scottish Borders. For 500 years the border between England and Scotland was a treacherous place with wars and raids a constant threat to residents. It was essential to build a home that could withstand attacks and Smaiholm provides an opportunity to visit one of these dwellings. The tower is a 10 mile cycle from Tweedbank station on the Borders Railway.

How to get there
Step One: Take the Borders Railway from Edinburgh Waverley to Tweedbank (55 minutes). Bicycles are carried free.

Step Two: Cycle 4 miles from Tweedbank to the Leaderfoot Viaduct, via Melrose. You can read the details of this route in my Leaderfoot Viaduct blog.​
Picture
Leaderfoot Viaduct
Step three: Cycle 5 miles from the Leaderfoot Viaduct on the C78 road. 
​
Beware that the start of this road involves an uphill slog. The C78 has very low traffic volume, less than B-roads. It was almost deserted when I rode it, which made for glorious cycling. It did not matter that the scenery was not particularly outstanding, just fields, because I had a wide road, well-surfaced, all to myself. At one point a vole scurried across the road in front of me, its legs moving at a furious pace.​
Picture
The C 78 road towards Smailholm tower feels like a B-road, but is much quieter
Picture
Old fashioned road millage sign. Smailholm is about halfway between Kelso and Melrose
After 5 miles you will find the sign for Smailholm that directs you onto a single-track road. After one mile you will arrive at the tower. On a field adjacent to this road I found a group of sheep lying exhausted with the remains of turnips scattered around them. They had been feasting and were too exhausted to run away from me when I pulled over to take in this scene of over indulgence.
Picture
On the final approach to the tower the road becomes a rough, gravel track. 

The landscape becomes increasingly rocky and totally different to the farmland that you have left behind. It comes as a surprise that such a craggy land exists in south Scotland. It feels like somewhere in the Highlands.
Picture
This pond was once a mill pond for a mill that supplied Smailholm Tower
It seems like the owners of the tower managed to seek out the only large rock in the Scottish Borders so that they could stick it on top of it.

It was for good reason that the tower was built here. The border between England and Scotand was a place of strife and it was essential for homes to be fortified. Smailholm was attacked by English raiders many times in the 1540s.
Picture
Smailhoilm Tower sits on top of a rock in the Scottish Borders
It was only in 1548 that the attacks stopped because John Pringle, the Laird, made a promise not to attack England or to interfere with English raids into Scotland. In return his lands were guaranteed to be left alone.​​
Picture
Smailholm Tower
The Pringle family had built the tower around 1450. They were one of the wealthiest families in the Borders, making a living from farming. Smailholm was their farmhouse and it really says something about the world they lived in when a farmhouse has to be a tower with 2.5m thick walls. 

The Pringles sold Smailholm to the Scott family in 1645. The most famous member of this family was none other than Sir Walter Scott, Scotland's renowned novelist. He spent time here as a child, recovering from polio, and this place inspired his love of the Scottish Borders.​
Picture
Smailholm Tower looks indestructible up close
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Thick walls of Smailholm Tower
Picture
A close up of Smailholm Tower
For me the outside of the tower is more impressive than inside. Its situation on top of the only rocky outcrop in the area, standing guard over the farmland is mesmerising. Just look at the size of the stones that have been used in its construction. Look up the side of the tower to the sky. This is a formidable building.
Picture
The gate into the courtyard of Smailholm Tower
The only way into the tower is through this small door:
Picture
The door into Smailholm Tower
The building has five stories linked by a spiral staircase with a rope banister. I loved how the age of the tower was written into this staircase with the wear on the steps and the scores and indents on the central pillar.
Picture
Spiral staircase inside Smailholm Tower
Picture
A stone window seat inside Smailholm Tower
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Vaulted ceiling in Smailhom Tower
Picture
Fireplace in Smailholm Tower
The rooms are mostly empty, apart from an exhibition of figures that feature in Walter Scott's ballads. This means there is no furniture or objects to take up your time. There are interesting architectural features like the vaulted ceilings, window seats and fire places.

​For me the highlight of a visit inside the tower is that you can access the rooftop. From here the views are incredible. You can clearly make out the oddness of this landscape- that this rocky ground is truly a one-off because it is largely surrounded by mainly flat farmland.
Picture
The view from the top of Smailholm Tower
Picture
The rooftop of Smailholm Tower
It does not take long to look inside the tower. It is the outside that is the best aspect of Smailholm. The tower on top of the rocky outcrop looks fantastic and you should take the time to walk around and capture it from every angle.

Other Things to See
Don't leave the area without a look at Smailholm Church, in the nearby village. It is very pretty and can be dated back to 1150.
Picture
Smailholm church
Picture
Smailholm church
On the return journey the road crosses over the Leader Water, not far from the Leaderfoot Viaduct. There is some lovely walking here with a path heading through the forest and alongside the water.
Picture
Walk along the Leader Water
More on the Scottish Borders...
  • Visit one of Scotland's best bookshops at Mainstreet Trading Company.
  • Cycle to the Leaderfoot Viaduct and visit the site of a Roman Fort.
  • Explore Melrose with its abbey, gardens and independent shops.
  • Stand alongside the huge William Wallace statue after visiting Dryburgh Abbey
  • Enjoy riding the Borders Railway, Scotland's newest railway line.
  • Visit my Scottish Borders page for more ideas.
2 Comments
Cecil Farrar
19/10/2020 01:49:55 am

Thank you so much for spending the time to put this article together about Smailholm Tower. What an excellent example of a Scottish Tower house. Your photographs are stunning and highlight the most interesting parts of the building. I can only imagine the views from the top: what a privilege to have been there.

Reply
Colin
20/10/2020 01:09:29 pm

Hi Cecil, thanks for your kind comments. I am glad you enjoyed the article.

Reply



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    My name is Colin Baird and I want to see all of Scotland by bicycle. Follow my blog on Facebook:

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