Slate Islands

They were known as the islands that roofed the world because of their huge slate deposits. The Slate Islands have a rich industrial heritage in beautiful surroundings. They are 12 miles south of Oban and a joy to explore  by bike.

Highlights

• quiet roads with hardly any traffic
• spectacular views of sea, islands and hills
• the stained glass of Kilbrandon Church
• taking the ferry from the Isle of Seil to the Isle of Luing
• the white cottages of Cullipool and Ellenabeich
• remains of slate quarries
• seafood at The Oyster Bar in Ellenabeich

Getting there

The first step is to travel the 12 miles from Oban to the Clachan Bridge, the 'bridge over the Atlantic.'

Bridge over the Atlantic blog

The Clachan Bridge takes you over to the Isle of Seil, the northernmost Slate Island. The single-track road on the island feels like it's a guest here, almost overwhelmed by the trees, ferns and grasses that enclose it.

Twisty road on the Isle of Seil

Kilbrandon Church

Three miles from the Clachan Bridge you'll find this gorgeous church. The interior is worth seeing with the stunning stained glass windows beautifully framed by the bare stone walls. 

Kilbrandon Church

Detail from a stained glass window in Kilbrandon church

From the church there's a view to Ballachuan Loch, surrounded by the lush greenery that carpets the island. Beyond the loch and across the sound are the hills on the mainland. They look imposing and rocky.

Ballachuan Loch

Ferry to Luing

Just under a mile from the church is Cuan where you can catch the ferry to the Isle of Luing. 
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The ferry runs every 30 minutes and the crossing takes about 5 minutes.

The ferry that crosses between the Isle of Seil and the Isle of Luing

Lobster pots at Cuan where the ferry leaves for Luing

Even a short ferry trip has a restorative effect. There's something about the motion, the sound of water against the hull and the sea spray that makes you go into an almost meditative state. 

​How I felt coming here was perfectly summed up on one of the island's tourist information panels:

"Isle of Luing- a place to think, a place to be."
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Arriving in Luing the rain came on heavy. I sheltered in the ferry waiting room. It's kitted out with cushions, a stack of magazines and a noticeboard with community information. 

Isle of Luing ferry waiting room.

Views and perfect roads

There's a steep climb to leave the ferry dock, but the views are spectacular at the top. Even with clouds and mist the composition of water, islands and hills would sell a million postcards. 

The view from the Isle of Luing

I knew immediately that I wanted to spend longer here. Reader, you should come here and enjoy this road. There's hardly any traffic and the green colours and landscape textures will make you smile all the way. 

The wonderful textures and green colours of the landscape in Luing

At one point the road was blocked by a cow that was not for moving. She stood her ground as I carefully went around.

A cow blocking the road on Luing

Cullipool

Cullipool

Around 2.5 miles from the ferry is Culipool. It's the largest settlement on the island, but that doesn't mean it's a busy place. Quite the opposite. The streets of white cottages were quiet and I didn't see another person.

It's very different to how this place must have been when the slate quarry was operating. It once employed 175 men and these cottages were their homes.

The quarry closed in 1965 and its remains are a fascinating, alien word. There are big hillsides in various states of destruction. 

Remains of the slate quarry on Luing

Men were once suspended by rope from the top of these hills. They drilled holes and packed them with gunpowder. The blasts left these hills looking like something from a sci-fi film set. The ground is littered with shattered slate of all different sizes and shapes.  ​

Remains of the slate quarry on Luing.

The beach at Cullipool is covered in shards of slate. When the waves roll in they push and then pull the slate. The sound this makes is gentle, soothing. It's a memory that will stay with me long after I depart these islands. 

The beach in Cullipol is covered with shards of slate

I had to catch the last ferry back to the Isle of Seil so I couldn't spend any longer on Luing. If I am lucky to return one day I would visit:

• the Atlantic Islands Centre with its exhibitions, programme of events and cafe
• the slate gravestones in Kilchattan graveyard 
• Toberonochy, a former slate quarrying village with whitewashed cottages

​The ferry was busier this time. The vehicle deck was so full that a van was on the ramp with its rear wheels dangling over the water. 

The ferry from Luing to Seil

Ellenabeich, Isle of Seil

It's about 3.5 miles from the ferry to Ellenabeich, the largest village on the island of Seil.
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It's another settlement with rows of white workers cottages. Some have small front gardens adorned with plants.

There's a village square with a crane rescued from the derelict pier as a a focal point. There's also a shop and a classic red phone box that looks great set against the white washed buildings. The street lamps, have a vintage look, a bit like gas lamps. 

White cottages with front gardens in Ellenabeich

Row of cottages in Ellenabeich

The telephone box in Ellenabeich with the Oyster Bar in the background

The Oyster Bar is the only place for a meal. There's quality seafood, burgers, steak and more. I had chowder. This was a super tasty creamy potato broth packed with smoked salmon, smoked haddock, prawns and scallops. 

Chowder at The Oyster Bar

A night out

A normal Tuesday night at home would probably be spent watching the TV. In Ellenabeich I went for a bike ride. 

I took the hill out of the village. The view up here shows off the beauty of this place. The craggy hill, Dun Mor, dominates the scene.

​You can see how close Easdale Island is to Ellenabeich. This island is famous for hosting the World Stone Skimming Championships each year. Competitors use Easdale slate skimming stones in one of the disused quarries. The island is car-free as the ferry takes only passengers. I didn't have time to visit Easdale this time around.

The view towards Ellenabeich. It's dominated by the hill, Dun Mor, On the left of the picture is the island of Easdale

I explored the rocky shoreline and the slate covered beaches. Apart from the gently rolling waves the only other sounds were the cry of seabirds and the occasional bleating sheep. 

The rocky shoreline near Ellenabeich with views of islands

The beach at Ellenabeich is covered in shards of slate

Garragh Mhor bed and breakfast

I stayed in Garragh Mhor on Ellenabeich. The hosts were super welcoming. They told me about the incredible wildlife on the island. Otters passed their front door a few days ago. There was a time when a guest forgot to close the door and lots of toads made their way inside! A swarm of hornets once gathered above the B&B- it was like a black cloud sitting just above the roof.

I love that conversations with B&B owners can give you a real flavour of what it's like to live in the places you visit. Oh, and the smoked salmon with scrambled eggs for breakfast was superb.

Garragh Mhor B&B in Ellenabeich, with Dun Mor towering above it

My thoughts on the Slate Islands

The Slate Islands are not as well-known as other islands in Scotland, like Skye or Harris. That can make them quieter, but the experience is just as good as those other places.

​I thought the scenery was spectacular. I loved the novelty of crossing the 'bridge over the Atlantic' to get to the islands and then the short ferry ride across to Luing. The quiet roads make for great cycling and the industrial heritage of the islands is a fascinating part of Scotland's history.

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The Slate Islands are in Argyll and Bute. You can read more blogs about this part of Scotland.

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