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Slate Islands

24/5/2023

5 Comments

 
Picture
They were known as the islands that roofed the world because of their huge slate deposits. The Slate Islands have a rich industrial heritage in beautiful surroundings. They are 12 miles south of Oban and a joy to explore  by bike.

Highlights

  • quiet roads with hardly any traffic
  • spectacular views of sea, islands and hills
  • the stained glass of Kilbrandon Church
  • taking the ferry from the Isle of Seil to the Isle of Luing
  • the white cottages of Cullipool and Ellenabeich
  • remains of slate quarries
  • seafood at The Oyster Bar in Ellenabeich

Getting there

The first step is to travel the 12 miles from Oban to the Clachan Bridge, the 'bridge over the Atlantic.'
Bridge over the Atlantic blog
The Clachan Bridge takes you over to the Isle of Seil, the northernmost Slate Island. The single-track road on the island feels like it's a guest here, almost overwhelmed by the trees, ferns and grasses that enclose it.
Twisty road on the Isle of Seil
Twisty road on the Isle of Seil

Kilbrandon Church

Three miles from the Clachan Bridge you'll find this gorgeous church. The interior is worth seeing with the stunning stained glass windows beautifully framed by the bare stone walls. 
Inside Kilbrandon Church. There are bare stone walls and stained glass windows.
Kilbrandon Church
Stained glass window in Kilbrandon church
Detail from a stained glass window in Kilbrandon church
From the church there's a view to Ballachuan Loch, surrounded by the lush greenery that carpets the island. Beyond the loch and across the sound are the hills on the mainland. They look imposing and rocky.
Ballachuan Loch on the Isle of Seil
Ballachuan Loch

Ferry to Luing

Just under a mile from the church is Cuan where you can catch the ferry to the Isle of Luing. 
​
The ferry runs every 30 minutes and the crossing takes about 5 minutes.
The ferry that crosses between the Isle of Seil and the Isle of Luing
The ferry that crosses between the Isle of Seil and the Isle of Luing
Lobster pots at Cuan on the Isle of Seil
Lobster pots at Cuan where the ferry leaves for Luing
Even a short ferry trip has a restorative effect. There's something about the motion, the sound of water against the hull and the sea spray that makes you go into an almost meditative state. 

​How I felt coming here was perfectly summed up on one of the island's tourist information panels:
"Isle of Luing- a place to think, a place to be."
​

Arriving in Luing the rain came on heavy. I sheltered in the ferry waiting room. It's kitted out with cushions, a stack of magazines and a noticeboard with community information. 
Isle of Luing ferry waiting room. A moped is parked in front and there's a red telephone box.
Isle of Luing ferry waiting room.

Views and perfect roads

There's a steep climb to leave the ferry dock, but the views are spectacular at the top. Even with clouds and mist the composition of water, islands and hills would sell a million postcards. 
The view from the Isle of Luing. In the foreground is the sea and there's a horizon of hills
The view from the Isle of Luing
I knew immediately that I wanted to spend longer here. Reader, you should come here and enjoy this road. There's hardly any traffic and the green colours and landscape textures will make you smile all the way. 
A road on the Isle of Luing with a green hill at the end
The wonderful textures and green colours of the landscape in Luing
At one point the road was blocked by a cow that was not for moving. She stood her ground as I carefully went around.
A cow blocking the road on Luing
A cow blocking the road on Luing

Cullipool

A row of white cottages in Cullipool on the Isle of Luing
Cullipool
Around 2.5 miles from the ferry is Culipool. It's the largest settlement on the island, but that doesn't mean it's a busy place. Quite the opposite. The streets of white cottages were quiet and I didn't see another person.

It's very different to how this place must have been when the slate quarry was operating. It once employed 175 men and these cottages were their homes.
A white cottage in Cullipool, Isle of Luing
A white cottage in Cullipool, Isle of Luing
The quarry closed in 1965 and its remains are a fascinating, alien word. There are big hillsides in various states of destruction. 
Remains of the slate quarry on Luing. Slate is littered all over the ground and there is a slate mountain that was blasted apart with explosives
Remains of the slate quarry on Luing
Men were once suspended by rope from the top of these hills. They drilled holes and packed them with gunpowder. The blasts left these hills looking like something from a sci-fi film set. The ground is littered with shattered slate of all different sizes and shapes.  ​
Remains of the slate quarry on Luing
Remains of the slate quarry on Luing.
The beach at Cullipool is covered in shards of slate. When the waves roll in they push and then pull the slate. The sound this makes is gentle, soothing. It's a memory that will stay with me long after I depart these islands. 
The beach in Cullipol is covered with shards of slate
The beach in Cullipol is covered with shards of slate
I had to catch the last ferry back to the Isle of Seil so I couldn't spend any longer on Luing. If I am lucky to return one day I would visit:

  • the Atlantic Islands Centre with its exhibitions, programme of events and cafe
  • the slate gravestones in Kilchattan graveyard 
  • Toberonochy, a former slate quarrying village with whitewashed cottages

​The ferry was busier this time. The vehicle deck was so full that a van was on the ramp with its rear wheels dangling over the water. 
The ferry from Luing to Seil
The ferry from Luing to Seil

Ellenabeich, Isle of Seil

It's about 3.5 miles from the ferry to Ellenabeich, the largest village on the island of Seil.
​
It's another settlement with rows of white workers cottages. Some have small front gardens adorned with plants.

There's a village square with a crane rescued from the derelict pier as a a focal point. There's also a shop and a classic red phone box that looks great set against the white washed buildings. The street lamps, have a vintage look, a bit like gas lamps. 
White cottages with front gardens in Ellenabeich
White cottages with front gardens in Ellenabeich
Row of white cottages in Ellenabeich
Row of cottages in Ellenabeich
Red telephone box in Ellenabeich with the Oyster Bar in the background
The telephone box in Ellenabeich with the Oyster Bar in the background
The Oyster Bar is the only place for a meal. There's quality seafood, burgers, steak and more. I had chowder. This was a super tasty creamy potato broth packed with smoked salmon, smoked haddock, prawns and scallops. 
A seafood chowder at The Oyster Bar in Ellenabeich
Chowder at The Oyster Bar

A night out

A normal Tuesday night at home would probably be spent watching the TV. In Ellenabeich I went for a bike ride. 

I took the hill out of the village. The view up here shows off the beauty of this place. The craggy hill, Dun Mor, dominates the scene.

​You can see how close Easdale Island is to Ellenabeich. This island is famous for hosting the World Stone Skimming Championships each year. Competitors use Easdale slate skimming stones in one of the disused quarries. The island is car-free as the ferry takes only passengers. I didn't have time to visit Easdale this time around.
The view towards Ellenabeich. It's dominated by the craggy hill, Dun Mor, On the left of the picture is the island of Easdale
The view towards Ellenabeich. It's dominated by the hill, Dun Mor, On the left of the picture is the island of Easdale
I explored the rocky shoreline and the slate covered beaches. Apart from the gently rolling waves the only other sounds were the cry of seabirds and the occasional bleating sheep. 
The rocky shoreline near Ellenabeich with views of islands
The rocky shoreline near Ellenabeich with views of islands
The beach at Ellenabeich is covered in shards of slate
The beach at Ellenabeich is covered in shards of slate

Garragh Mhor bed and breakfast

I stayed in Garragh Mhor on Ellenabeich. The hosts were super welcoming. They told me about the incredible wildlife on the island. Otters passed their front door a few days ago. There was a time when a guest forgot to close the door and lots of toads made their way inside! A swarm of hornets once gathered above the B&B- it was like a black cloud sitting just above the roof.

I love that conversations with B&B owners can give you a real flavour of what it's like to live in the places you visit. Oh, and the smoked salmon with scrambled eggs for breakfast was superb.
Garragh Mhor B&B in Ellenabeich, with Dun Mor towering above it
Garragh Mhor B&B in Ellenabeich, with Dun Mor towering above it

My thoughts on the Slate Islands

The Slate Islands are not as well-known as other islands in Scotland, like Skye or Harris. That can make them quieter, but the experience is just as good as those other places.

​I thought the scenery was spectacular. I loved the novelty of crossing the 'bridge over the Atlantic' to get to the islands and then the short ferry ride across to Luing. The quiet roads make for great cycling and the industrial heritage of the islands is a fascinating part of Scotland's history.

Explore Argyll and Bute

The Slate Islands are in Argyll and Bute. You can read more blogs about this part of Scotland.
Blogs about Argyll and Bute
5 Comments
Alasdair MacCaluim link
27/5/2023 02:26:32 am

A really evocative blog - I could imagine it all so well from your description. I'm going on holiday to Oban this year so I'll make sure I head south to try the Slate Islands too.

Who runs the Ferry? Is it CalMac or Argyll and Bute council or someone else?

Reply
Colin
29/5/2023 03:05:16 pm

Thanks Alasdair!
It's Argyll and Bute council that runs the 2 ferries on the Slate Islands

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