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Dysart and Kirkcaldy by bike

22/7/2024

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Highlights

  • around 7 miles of cycling, including Kirkcaldy's traffic-free promenade and Ravenscraig Park
  • discover Kirkcaldy's past and wonderful art in Kirkcaldy Galleries
  • stroll around Dysart harbour and enjoy lunch at the Harbourmaster's Cafe
  • fall in love with the Pan Ha', a row of beautiful white houses facing the Firth of Forth

Getting there

Edinburgh to Kirkcaldy takes around 45 minutes by train. It's free to put your bike on the train, but some of the trains on this route need a reservation. My guide to taking your bike on the train can help you plan this.

Sit on the right-hand side of the train to get the coastal views. You'll cross the world-famous Forth Railway Bridge, an experience that never gets old no matter how many times you do it.

Kirkcaldy promenade

Kirkcaldy Promenade. A long and wide path next to a beach and the sea
Kirkcaldy Promenade
The best place to ride your bike in Kirckaldy is the promenade. It runs along the shore for about 1 mile. It's traffic-free, wide a flat. You'll get some great views and a refreshing sea breeze.

It takes about 5 minutes to get to the promenade from the station. However, the roads leaving the station are not the best for cycling as they are quite busy with traffic. I ended up walking with my bike down Whyte Melville Road until I reached West Fergus Place. From here it's a straight ride down to the promenade. It's reasonably quiet for traffic, but does get busier the closer you get to the promenade.

Merchants House for coffee

A chocolate cake and a coffee with foam and chocolate on top
Coffee and cake at Merchants House
When you reach the end of the promenade cross the road to the Merchants House Cafe. The cakes are amazing. The boozy plum and chocolate cake I had was on another level. So tasty and there was enough to feed 2 people! Outside the cafe there's a small square with some seating. If it's sunny this is quite a nice spot, although it does feel like you are surrounded by busy traffic.  

The building the cafe is in is one of the most impressive in Kirkcaldy. It was built by David Law, in 1590, a wealthy ship owner. There's a beautiful courtyard, accessed by a passageway to the side of the cafe.
Buildings in the courtyard of Merchants House, Kirkcaldy
Courtyard at Merchants House

Quays and wharfs

Carrs flour mill and a ship in the harbour, in front of the mill
Carrs flour mill
Continuing to Dysart you can avoid some of the busy A921 by using the roads next to the harbour. There's not much to see here as the area has been developed into housing. The loud noise from the Carrs flour mill at least evokes something of the busy place this once was. 70% of the wheat for the mill is delivered by boat, so there's a good chance of seeing a vessel tied up here.

Pathhead Sands

Beach at Pathhead Sands in Kirkcaldy
Beach at Pathhead Sands
After leaving the harbour you can cycle on the pavement. It is a shared use pavement, but this is not obvious. There is a white line down the middle of the pavement and this is supposed to communicate that one side is for pedestrians and the other for bicycles. There is a painted bicycle on one of the sides, but only at infrequent intervals and the white line is sometimes non-existent. Even though it can feel like you should not be cycling on this pavement you can take it all the way to Ravenscraig Park.

Or you can make a diversion down to the beach at Pathhead Sands. If you take the road into the Carr's Mill this will lead you on a rough path to the Sands. Park up your bike and take a walk on the beach. In Scotland, even right next to an urban centre, you are never far from the beauty of nature. The sizes, shapes, colours and textures of the pebbles on this beach are so lovely.
Pebbles on the beach at Pathhead Sands, Kirkcaldy. They are different colours, shapes, sizes and textures
Pebbles on the beach at Pathhead Sands
To continue the journey it's either a steep hill or lifting your bike up a lot of steps. I did the steps, but with a heavy bike it's hard work. The view down the steps to the beach and the sea was the reward for the effort. 
A long set of steps that connect Ravenscraig Park to Pathhead Sands in Kirkcaldy
The steps that connect Ravenscraig Park to Pathhead Sands

Ravenscraig Park

Picture
Ravenscraig's combination of  coastal views, forest and plenty of green space makes it a joy to explore. It's one of Scotland's great urban parks. A good quality path takes you through the park to get to Dysart. 
Ravenscraig Castle is in one corner of the park. Although it's mostly a ruin, it's worth taking a look. This 15th century castle has 2 huge D-shaped towers and it was entered by a bridge over a defensive ditch. 
Ravenscraig Castle, Kirkcaldy. A bridge leads to the entrance of the castle
Ravenscraig Castle

Dysart Harbour

Hot Pot Wynd in Dysart. A bicycle is resting against a stone house on this street
The author's bike parked on Hot Pot Wynd in Dysart. This street leads down to the harbour
After leaving Ravenscraig Park you take the wonderfully named Hot Pot Wynd to reach Dysart Harbour. I locked up my bike and explored on foot.

The harbour is a lovely spot with plenty of bobbing boats and a cobblestone road. Outlander fans will know the harbour was used in one of the episodes. ​Look out for the boat shed covered in all kinds of fun paraphernalia.
A boat shed at Dysart Harbour that's covered in fishing paraphernalia. There's a old bicycle and lots of plaques with the names of boats
The boat shed at Dysart Harbour that's covered in paraphernalia
The cobblestone road around Dysart Harbour
The cobblestone road around Dysart Harbour
If you head south, along the cobblestone path that runs the length of the harbour you'll reach a tunnel cut into the rock. This takes you to Ravenscraig Park beach. If you have a picnic this is a nice spot for it.
The tunnel that links Dysart Harbour with Ravenscraig Park beach. The tunnel is cut through rock and has a low ceiling
The tunnel that links Dysart Harbour with Ravenscraig Park beach

Lunch at the Harbourmaster's Cafe

Inside the Harbourmaster's Cafe at Dysart Harbour. There are white chairs and tables with light coloured wood, lots of widows letting in natural light
Inside the Harbourmaster's Cafe
The Harbourmaster's House is the most distintive structure at the harbour. Inside you'll find a great cafe. I had the mackerel pate with Melba Toast. It was the perfect dish for these surroundings. The white chairs and light colour palette of the interior give the place a feeling of summer by the coast. The windows were open and there was a gentle sea breeze drifting in.

Pan Ha' white houses

Pan Ha' in Dysart. The houses are white
Pan Ha' in Dysart
This row of 16th century white houses, with red roofs, faces the Firth of Forth. They have names that are evocative of their location- there's the Shore Master's House, the Tide Waiter's House, and the Pilot's House. It was my favourite part of this trip to walk the paths between the buildings and imagine the pleasure of living in such a place. 
The white houses of Pan' Ha looking over the Firth of Forth
A view of the Pan Ha' looking over the Firth of Forth
Pan Ha' in Dysart. A row of white houses with St Serf's tower behind them
Pan Ha' with St Serf's Tower behind it

St. Serf's and the Tolbooth

The tower behind Pan Ha' is Saint Serf's. It's from the 16th-century and was part of a large church complex. If you go behind Pan Ha' you can get a closer look at the tower. You cannot go inside, but up close it's an impressive structure that I think looks more like castle than a church.
Saint Serf's tower in Dysart. It's made of stone and resembles a castle tower
Saint Serf's tower in Dysart
Just a short stroll away, the Tolbooth is another of Dysart's architectural highlights. It dates back to 1576 and had been the meeting place of the burgh council and the town's jail.​
Tolbooth in Dysart. It has a clock tower and is pale yellow in colour
Tolbooth, Dysart

Kirkcaldy Galleries

Picture
A print of Links Market, painted by James Patrick 1884.
Before you take the train home you should make some time for this art gallery and museum. It's right next to Kirkcaldy station.

The art on display includes works by the Scottish Colourists and the Glasgow Boys. In the museum you'll discover many fascinating things about Kirkcaldy. For example, it's famous for having Europe's longest street fair, with shows, rides and stalls.  Kirkcaldy was also the world's largest producer of linoleum, a floor covering. At it's peak this industry employed 4000 people. 

The museum is engaging and accessible. I really enjoyed making my way around the displays. I adored the photograph of Kirkcaldy penny farthing cyclists. They are posing with their bikes, dressed in immaculate uniforms that reminded me of Victorian railway workers. They travelled with a bugler who signaled their mounting and dismounting, and warned pedestrians. What a sight they must have been!
Photo of Penny farthing cyclists in Kirkcaldy. The photo is in Kirkcaldy galleries. They are all men and wear uniforms with caps. One of the men holds a bugle
Photo of Penny farthing cyclists in Kirkcaldy. The photo is in Kirkcaldy galleries
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