Cycle The Highlands: Bike-packing The North Coast 500

Long-distance bike rides have been the chosen escape for me and my partner for the last 10 years. Cycling around lakes on the weekend we’ve been testing our endurance on longer trips on bike-packing expeditions. Our last journey took us through Scotland’s highlands and followed the North Coast 500 (NC500).

Scotland is the only place in the UK where you can wild camp, allowing you to explore freely. Since we planned our route before leaving, we knew a lot of great locations to spend the night. Staying anywhere allowed us to choose whether we wanted to stop, continue or explore.

Why we love the challenge

Challenging the NC500 by bike-packing requires a lot of training and preparation. You’ll be cycling back-to-back, long-distance rides every day over formidable terrain. This can often be too much for people even without the additional gear. The NC500 is a road trip created by the North Highland Initiative in 2014. The traditional route covers 516 miles from Inverness Castle, then follows the coastline, finishing back where you started.

Like most cyclists who attempt this route, we followed a different path. The A9 and A99 on the East Coast, are the most dangerous and disliked roads for cyclists. Fortunately, a cycling route is available through central Scotland. This provides a cyclist-friendly alternative. Finding this route was the start of our adventure.

The joys of cycling

How you tackle the NC500 is completely up to you. Wild camping is a lot of fun for some people, but the idea of resting on the floor after a long ride can put people off. Hotels, lodges and B&Bs are all alternative options available along the route. Remember the challenge and enjoyment of this trip come from the cycling and the scenery. No matter your accommodation if you cycle the NC500 you should be incredibly proud.

We enjoy bike-packing as it allows us to see the scenic countryside without causing any harm. Cycling and camping both cause minimal environmental impact. Just remember to look out for litter and check where you’re pitching your tent. Cycling as a hobby has grown more popular in recent years. This is due to more people being concerned about their health and the environment. People's interest in the hobby has made longer trips more common, such as cycling holidays.

The Unforgettable Scottish Highlands

​Applecross Peninsula
We chose to cycle the route clockwise as we knew the West coast was more challenging than the East. The major incline started on the second day as we took on the Applecross peninsular. The daunting Bealach na Ba Pass holds first place on our list of unforgettable moments. Scaling 626m over 11.4 miles, the climb pushes you and your bike to the limit. For touring bikes full of gear, some sections proved too challenging, and I’ll admit, we pushed for part of the climb. This didn’t diminish the pride we felt at the top nor the views the entire way up.

Descending from the summit, we were greeted by the coastline in no time at all. Seeing the ocean and knowing we had completed one of the toughest climbs of the trip, made us feel on top of the world. We set up camp in high spirits and enjoyed the pub in Applecross that evening. Wild camping is quite common outside the town, and we met some great fellow cyclists when we set off in the morning. All the people we met on our trip were open and even offered great advice if they’d completed the tour before.

Strathy Point Lighthouse
Moving on to the north coast, we must share the stunning location of Strathy Point Lighthouse. A perfect spot to wild camp, the lighthouse is away from the main road and surrounded by flat ground to pitch tents. The surrounding cliffs and beaches are perfect for a rest stop for your aching bum and legs. We found an ideal spot overlooking the cliffs which, despite being windy, offered the respite we needed.

An extended trip: John o’ Groats
You may call us crazy for cycling the NC500 in the first place, but you’ll probably call us absolutely nuts for adding a whole extra day to our trip. Since we were up in the north, we wanted to see John o’ Groats and mainland UK’s most northern point. The cyclist version of the NC500 cuts inland after passing Melvich Beach and avoids the Northeast of the country. We decided that since we were in the very north, we should reach the most northern place we could.
​
Our detour to John o’ Groats took us to Dunnet head and let us boast about being as far north as we could (without swimming). From there, we ventured along single-track lanes past the Castle of Mey and Scotland's Haven. These stunning attractions offered great stops along the journey. For me, the constant ocean views while cycling were my favourite part of the north coast. We reached John o’ Groats around mid-day and got to explore the hidden wonder at the end of the UK and enjoy a great lunch.

Are you up for the journey?
There's plenty more wonders to see along the North Coast 500, we’re happy to have shared our favourites. Would we recommend completing the route to others? 100%, but fair warning… It hurts. When it rains, it’s cold and hurts and when the 5th hill of the day hits, you’re grumpy while it hurts. To anyone planning to cycle the NC500, our best advice is to practice before attempting and read up on the gear and traffic. Practice cycling with gear and cycling in the rain. Follow routes that involve lots of hills and test your endurance for long rides day after day. I okay to have a support car, at the end of the day this is for fun not competition. We hope you’re feeling inspired to see the sights yourself, and that we didn’t spoil too much. After all, coming across a stunning bridge over a loch unexpectedly, is more memorable than finding one you’re already looking out for.