Sunset in Gigha. The Island of Jura is on the horizon
Highlights
Getting to Gigha
The Isle of Gigha is reached by Caledonian MacBrayne ferry from Tayinloan. The ferry takes 20 minutes. There are several ways to get to Tayinloan.
Citylink coach, service 926, from Glasgow It takes around 4 hours to reach Tayinloan and the coach can carry one bicycle. You can book on the Citylink website. Ferry to the Isle of Arran and 34 miles of cycling You start this route by taking a train from Glasgow to Ardrossan (45 minutes). Then a ferry to the Isle of Arran. You cycle 14 miles across Arran to Lochranza. From there take another ferry across to Claonaig. Finally, cycle about 20 miles to reach Tayinloan. Ferry to Campbeltown and 21 miles of cycling You start this route by taking a train from Glasgow to Ardrossan. Then a ferry to Campbeltown. It's then a 21 mile cycle to Tayinloan. Big Jessie's Tearoom
The shoreline at the ferry terminal for the ferry to Gigha
The ferry terminal at Tayinloan has a sandy beach and crystal clear water. It's certainly a contender for one of Scotland's most beautiful ferry docks.
Big Jessie's tea room is here- do not pass it by. You can get an amazing sandwich called the Gigha Rarebit. It's a delicious combination of toasted bread, melted cheese, spring onions, mustard and garlic. There's an outdoor seating area that's perfect for soaking up some rays. 
Gigha Rarebit at Big Jessie's Tearoom
There's also a great selection of home baking. I had a delicious toffee cake on my visit.
Toffee cake at Big Jessie's tea room
The ferry to Gigha
The ferry to Gigha
The ferry is always a highlight when visiting Scottish islands. This is when the excitement builds about the journey ahead. The sense of anticipation of taking a boat to somewhere new. The smell of the sea. The rhythm of the boat. The sound of water churned by the propellors.
It's quite hypnotic sitting on the deck of a Caledonian MacBrayne ferry. The sun on my face. The gentle breeze. Surrendering myself to 'ferry time'. One of the best 20 minutes I've spent on public transport. 
The view from the ferry to Gigha. The hills on the horizon are the Isle of Jura
My first impression of Gigha
On some islands the place where the ferry arrives is not the most scenic and you have to cycle a little bit before it gets beautiful. Gigha is different. As soon as you are off the boat there's a small, white, perfect beach. There was a blue rowing boat on the grass in front of the beach, creating one of those quintessential Scottish island scenes.
The beach next to where the ferry arrives at Gigha
Boat overlooking the beach
Gigha hotel
Gigha Hotel
It's mores special to stay a night on a small island, instead of doing a day trip. It lets you slow down the pace and not rush around trying to see everything before the last ferry to the mainland. You get to experience what it is like to wake up on a island and perhaps enjoy an evening meal.
I stayed in the Gigha hotel. It's a cosy, small hotel. In its restaurant I enjoyed a meal of scallops, followed by a burger. There was a large family sitting at the table next to me. The children were indecisive about which desserts to order. One of the adults had been outside for a cigarette and announced to the children, "I've found a nest! I think there are chicks inside. Do you want to see?" The hotel is currently closed (as of February 2025) for renovations. There are other places to stay and eat on the island. You can find them all on the Visit Gigha website. Sunset cycle
Sun setting over the Isle of Jura,seen from the Isle of Gigha
I love heading out for a post-dinner cycle. Summer evenings on a Scottish island can be the most magical time for a bike ride. There's usually very few people around and you can often catch a sunset. The one I saw on Gigha will stay with me forever.
The island was completely quiet, apart from birdsong. I felt like I had entered a portal to another world, transported to paradise. The setting sun over the Paps of Jura was stunning. I could not take my eyes off it. I felt like I was in a dream, that only such perfection can happen in a dream. 
Sunset from the beach. Isle of Gigha
This was particularly acute when I walked to a small beach marked with a sign for 'fisherman's cave.' The sun had turned the sand golden. I compared it to a sparkling bar of gold in a bank vault. Not that I've seen a bar of gold, but this is what I thought of. The water was completely still, not even the sound of a ripple. The experience was overwhelming. The beauty of our planet can easily leave you speechless.
Looking to the Paps of Jura from Gigha
The giant's tooth
During my sunset cycle I visited Carragh an Tairbeirt, a standing stone that looks like a tooth. Legend has it that a giant had toothache and pulled it out its mouth, throwing it to the ground.
The stone has been here since at least the Bronze Age and it is located on the narrowest part of the island. It was perhaps used to mark this spot so that it could be seen by sailors who could drag their boats across the land, instead of having to sail around it. 
Carragh an Tairbeirt, standing stone in Gigha
Gigha shortbread
The next day I explored more of the island. It was perfect cycling, with a noticeable absence of motor vehicles. I came across a table by the roadside with a collection of things for sale. It had an honesty box and a price list held in place with beach pebbles. I bought the tablet and shortbread, wrapped with a tartan bow. The shortbread was my favourite, the right combination of crunchy, crumbly butteriness.
Gigha tablet and shortbread
Kilchattan Chapel
I stopped at this 13th century ruin, having read about the beautfully carved grave stones. The chapel was dedicated to St. Catan, an Irish missionary.
Kilchattan Chapel
For me the most impressive carved stone is the one of a warrior. The figure looks like it has a kilt and wearing a sheathed sword. This is the grave of Malcolm MacNeil who was chieftan of the island in the 15th century.
Carved gravestone of Malcolm MacNeill at Kilchattan
Achamore Gardens
One of the top attractions on the island is the 54 acre Achamore Gardens. It's full of exotic and rare plants. Achamore House was built by the Scarlett family when they bought the island in 1837. In 1944 Sir James Horlick became the new laird of the island and he was a keen gardener.
Sir James transformed the grounds with rare and exotic plants. These include Brazilian rhubarb, Chilean Fire Bush and a rhododendron that's found only on one mountain in Myanmar. 
Achamore House
In 2002 the community bought the island from it's last private landowner. The gardens are now owned by the Isle of Gigha Heritage Trust.
Achamore Gardens
A mild climate helped by the Gulf Stream provides ideal growing conditions for the plants at Achamore. The extensive woodland gives them shelter from harsh winds.
I spent 2 hours here. The gardens are surprisingly large and when you are deep inside them it's easy to forget you are on an island. You can loose yourself in the beauty of the place, enjoying the variety of flowers. There is a sense of being somewhere tropical because of the exotic nature of what grows here. It's so peaceful that the loudest sound is buzzing insects. 
Pond at Achamore Gardens
Achamore gardens
Don't miss the viewpoint at Achamore gardens. It looks towards the islands of Jura and Islay.
The viewpoint from Achamore gardens
Isle of Gigha ice cream
The Wee Isle Dairy is a family business producing milk and ice cream. They have a cafe where you can enjoy the ice cream or pick up a tub from Ardminish Stores. The tubs are decorated with photos of the island.
Let me tell you this is great ice cream. It tastes especially good when you read that they do not use the nasty ingredients you can find in other ice creams. 
Ice cream from the Wee Isle Dairy
Other things to do on Gigha
Where next?
Try cycling to the Mull of Kintyre lighthouse. It's one of the best bike rides I've experienced in Scotland.
First you take the A83 to Campbeltown. It's about 21 miles south of Tayinloan. Then it's 17 miles from Campbeltown to the lighthouse.
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