 If you love everything about bikes, from the technical to the quirky this is the book for you. Johan Tell has thoroughly researched the subject and there is an entry for pretty much everything to do with bikes, like gears, carbon fibre and health benefits. The highlight of the book is where the entry involves the author visiting an interesting location to find out more and talk to people. For example, he visits the Biachini bicycle factory. He explores the Dutch city of Groningen to discover why it is considered the best cycling city in the world.
The book explores cycling from the perspective of transportation, sport and lifestyle. It is structured in an A to Z style. Some entries are very short, some several pages long. It's not intended to be a detailed guide to every aspect of cycling, more of a love story to the author's passion for bicycles. The entries are diverse whether it be cheating at cycling races, bamboo bikes or films that feature bikes. Tell also makes a strong case for the environmental and health benefits of cycling. The entries where the author visits a factory or iconic cycling location are like mini travelogues and I found these to be the most interesting parts of the book. Although the book is in the style of an encyclopedia the writing style is engaging. It keeps you interested. There are also vibrant illustrations that give the book a pleasing aesthetic. This makes it work well as a coffee table book that you can dip in and out of. En Cyclo Pedia is a celebration of all things bicycle. It’s informative and passionate. If you love bicycles and cycling culture and want to know more about it you'll enjoy this book.
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This is the best of the best when it comes to travel experiences in Scotland. It's one of my favourite bike rides in the country. It is physically challenging and difficult to get to. The effort is absolutely worth it. To be able to immerse yourself in the beauty of this place is a privilege.
Highlights
Getting there
The lighthouse is around 17 miles from Campbeltown. The easiest way to take a bicycle to Campbeltown is the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry from Ardrossan. In recent years the ferry has been subject to cancellations. Hopefully this will be resolved soon.
Alternatively, you can book your bicycle on the Citylink coach from Glasgow to Campbeltown. Journey time is around 4 hours and 15 minutes. An easy start
Main Street, Campbeltown
If you have time it's worth a look around Campbeltown. You could visit a whisky distillery or catch a film at the Art Nouveau cinema. Campbeltown Heritage Centre is a great place to learn about the social history of the town.
If you are staying the night I recommend Craigard House Hotel. You leave town on the B842 road. It's easy cycling with a smooth road and not too much traffic. I had the wind behind me and raced along. 
A view from the B842 road, not far from Campbeltown
7 mile challenge
When you reach the sign that tells you 'Mull of Kintyre Lightouse 7 miles' prepare yourself for a feat of stamina and endurance. There are a lot of steep hills and sometimes I had to get off and push. This ride tested me, but it was worth every second of the effort.
At one point there's a gate across the road. It takes quite a bit of effort to open and close it whilst handling a bike. It's here that you first notice what's behind you. A vista of hills and a curved sandy bay. 
The gate across the road, an opportunity to look back at the coastal view
The higher the road climbs the better this view gets. You will want to keep turning around to look at it. I was taken aback by how stunning this was and I began to wonder if I had found my favourite part of Scotland.
As the road climbs the view back towards the sweeping bay opens up
I had to get off and push for a bit. It was hard going. Then the road leveled out and the glorious blue sea was on my left. It felt like I was on the edge of the land, on a road that was taking me as far as it was possible to go on mainland Scotland.
At times it really feels like a road taking you to the end of Scotland
A wildflower by the side of the road to the Mull of Kintyre lighthouse
The frequent stops to look at the view meant I noticed wildflowers on the road verges. My favourite had 4 blue petals.
Moorland
The road heads through moorland. It goes deep into this landscape so that sometimes it's easy to forget how close the sea is. At other times the coast is visible, an enticing backdrop to a world of greens and browns.
The road crosses moorland on the way to the Mull of Kintyre lighthouse
This moorland has sections of forest. I walked through ferns to reach a waterfall to fill my bottle and quench my thirst. I was enchanted by the fluffy white heads of bog cotton. White dots on a green sea, gently blowing in the wind.
Bog cotton on the way to the Mull of Kintyre lighthouse
Close up of bog cotton
I lay down on the moor, among the bog cotton, exhausted. I could smell Heather. I could hear birdsong. I looked up at blue sky, not a cloud in sight. I closed my eyes for a few minutes. It was bliss.
The road through the moorland on the way to the Mull of Kintyre Lighthouse
"Look at you, you're amazing!"
I got back up and continued pushing the pedals. A few minutes later I stopped to let a car pass. The driver pulled over and said, "look at you, you're amazing!" He was from Connecticut and was here for the golf at Machrihanish. It's one of the top courses in Scotland. He was impressed that I was cycling to the lighthouse, although concerned for my welfare and offered me a lift. I politely declined, determined to do this on my own.
I reached the gate that stops cars from going any further to the lighthouse. If you are driving and want to reach the lighthouse you've got to walk the final part. This is the moment where you decide to continue or not. The lighthouse is at the end of a long and twisty road. It's all downhill, but if you do go down you need to be able to walk back up again. For many people this is where the journey ends as the thought of coming back up that hill is just too much. 
The steep and twisting road down to the Mull of Kintyre lighthouse
To cycle or not to cycle?
I went around the gate and kept cycling.
I spent more time using my brakes than pedaling. The road is incredibly steep. I was also distracted by what I was seeing. At each turn in the road I found myself saying, "Unbelievable. This is so beautiful." I know I was on my own, but I felt the need to say out loud how special this place is. Soon it was too steep to keep cycling. I got off and pushed my bike. Then I realised if I took it all the way to the lighthouse I would have to push it all the way back up. I decide to leave it by the side of the road. 
The end of the road. Arriving at the Mull of Kintyre lighthouse
"This aid to navigation is provided for the safety of all mariners" (plaque on the Mull of Kintyre lighthouse)
The walk seemed to go on forever. Each time I turned a corner I saw more road ahead.
I reached the helicopter landing pad- a tarmac circle next to the road. When the lighthouse first opened in 1788 it was much more of a challenge to get supplies here. They were landed by boat about 6 miles away. Then carried by horse. It took the best part of a day to transport the supplies. The lighthouse keeper was given an extra payment to look after the horse. After the helicopter pad I arrived at the white buildings that cluster around the lighthouse tower. It feels like the tower is in a courtyard, sheltered by the buildings. I imagine this is a deliberate design to keep out stormy weather. 
The Mull of Kintyre lighthouse was built in 1788 and rebuilt in 1824. It's not a very tall lighthouse
The lighthouse tower is small. There are only 15 steps inside. But it doesn't need to be taller as it's already 91 meters above the sea. It's a big drop from the land's edge to the sea.
There's no access to the tower or the buildings, but you can walk down to the foghorn, perched right on the edge, overlooking the expanse of sea. 
Foghorn at Mull of Kintyre lighthouse
Heading inside the fog horn building
It was built in 1876. The horn sound was created by steam. There was a four minute gap between each horn blast.
You can go inside to see the rusted remains of the machinery and look out of the broken windows for the incredible views. 
Machinery for the fog horn
"My desire is always to be here"
Looking at the coastline with its hills and inlets and the perfection of the calm sea made me wonder if I was on the Med. Or on a Greek Island. No, this was definitely Scotland and in my mind I could hear rousing bag pipe music. It was the famous Paul McCartney song, "Mull of Kintyre".
In 1977 the song was number one in the UK charts for 9 weeks. The powerful and moving sound of Campbeltown's pipe band is my favourite part of the track. One of the lyrics is "My desire is always to be here." On a day like this you can understand why. 
The view up the Mull of Kintyre from the lighthouse
I was certainly lucky with the weather. I can imagine this place takes on a totally different atmosphere when shrouded in mist. Or hit by a howling storm. Even so, I'd like to experience that.
The way back
To leave the lighthouse the only option is to go back the way you came. I walked back up the hill to where I left my bike. Then I had to push it up to where the road leveled out. I felt my feet almost digging into the tarmac to get the bike to the top.
From this point the ride got easier. It's mostly downhill. Sometimes going back the way you came is not fun, but I felt lucky to be able to do this route a second time. The scone
I made the mistake of not carrying food with me on this journey. By the time I got back to Campbeltown I was shaking with hunger. I pulled into the cafe at Campbeltown Heritage Centre. Never before had a scone looked and tasted so good. The staff could see I was in need and put a mountain of cream on it. And a piece of shortbread on the side.
Amazing scone at the cafe in Campbeltown Heritage Centre
Final thoughts
This is probably one of my favourite places in Scotland. To visit it by bike is a physical challenge. You need to have good fitness and be prepared to mix cycling with walking and pushing your bike. It's important to take plenty of food and water as there are no shops once you leave Campbeltown.
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