"Charming, unique and delightful- this sums it up". I wrote this in my journal after staying at the Knockomie Inn in Forres. It has the classic ingredients of a Scottish country house hotel. There's antlers, wood paneling and a bar stocked with over 80 single malts. It's also got a relaxed and homely atmosphere. Hotel location Knockomie is around a mile south of Forres town centre. It is set in 4 acres of gardens. History The architecture of the building is Arts and Crafts. It was built in 1812 as a villa for visiting judges. It was later owned by the Fraser family who made their money from tea plantations in India. Rooms There are 15 rooms, all with their own style. Mine had a neutral and calming decor. There are original features like the fireplace with an old servant bell and the large sash and case window. My favourite thing in the room was the writing desk. I sat here in the evening and kept my travel journal up to date. The only sound that could be heard inside the room was birdsong from the garden, a delight to wake up to in the morning. Dinner The small restaurant is cosy, the staff welcoming and the atmosphere informal. I felt like I was a guest in the home of a good friend, rather than some anonymous hotel. The starter of smoked salmon roulade with capers tasted sharp and fresh. For the main course I could not resist trying a fish n' chips with haddock in whisky batter. Although I couldn't detect much in the way of whisky flavour this was still a very good piece of fish and fluffy chips. The dessert was the highlight. A chocolate ganache that was rich and seriously chocolaty. Whisky bar Knockamie is in the Speyside whisky region. Benromach distillery is just 2 miles from the hotel, so I tried the 10 year old single malt. It has a golden colour and a wonderful flavour combination of fruit, malt and a hint of smoke. The lounge with the real fire is the choice spot to relax with your drink. The owners of Knockomie, Penny and Gavin, have gone to great efforts to make this place feel relaxed and informal. Although there is an air of luxury and grandness in the architecture and decor, you never feel that its stuffy. Gavin told me that they get a lot of cyclists staying here. This put me at ease as I always feel a bit self-conscious turning up at places like this. Especially after hours on the road and looking a bit dirty and disheveled. Breakfast I had poached haddock, served with a few grinds of salt. The fish was delicious and really didn't need anything else to go with it. Then a warm croissant and coffee. In these surroundings it is impossible to rush breakfast. Enjoy the architecture, the large windows where the morning sun floods in and the birdsong from the garden. Exploring Forres Forres is famous for its floral displays and gardens. Getting here
It's around 30 minutes by train from Inverness to Forres. I cycled here on National Cycle Route One.
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What better way to explore Scotland's best locations than cycling? Cycling is one of the best things you can do to truly experience the locations you visit and immerse yourself in the beauty of every stop you make. It can be challenging to choose where to go as there are so many great locations to take your bike out for a spin. Luckily, VisitScotland can give you a hand with that. They have teamed up with UNESCO to create the first-ever digital trail.
UNESCO aims to recognise, preserve and educate people about the world's most extraordinary places. These locations are truly unique. Not only do they have the power to help us travel through time, but they enhance the world's cultural and environmental diversity as well. Scotland is the first country in the world to combine 13 locations recognised by UNESCO as 'Designations' in one interactive digital map. You can explore the trail online first to learn more about the history of each spot, or you can visit all of them physically and truly see everything they have to offer. Keep on reading for our list of some of the best destinations for cycling lovers. Whether you fancy some city cycling or something a little bit more challenging, there's something for everyone. But why not immerse yourself in the natural beauty of a Biosphere Reserve or Global Geopark? Biosphere Reserves The South West of Scotland is a cyclists paradise, and the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere is no exception. A place of natural beauty and heart-stopping views, cyclists can easily explore the region. The area, which covers 5,268 square kilometres in southwest Scotland, offers some of the best beaches you'll ever see, along with deep woodlands and forests, all providing habitats for a rich diversity of plants and wildlife. If you head further north, you will find the Wester Ross Biosphere. Pristine beaches, gleaming lochs and enchanting forests, this spot offers unique biodiversity, where communities live in harmony with the land and sea, preserving a time-honoured way of life. It's also home to one of the oldest geologies in the world. Global Geoparks Shetland Global Geopark offers many quiet roads in excellent condition for cycling. If you want to take a break from the bike, there’s plenty to do. From walking on an ancient ocean floor to exploring an extinct volcano or even just strolling across shifting sands. This giant geological jigsaw can help you travel through time with rocks that range from 3 billion to just over 300 million years old. The North West Highlands Global Geopark makes for an ideal day with its white sandy beaches, rocky mountain ridges, atmospheric rock caves, grass, peatland, moors, and forest. The earliest evidence of life anywhere in Europe was found in this area. Ready to explore the UNESCO Trail? Head over to the VisitScotland site. This is a very handy cycling wallet for essentials and valuables, like your phone, keys and money. It's from Craft Cadence, a London company that specialises in gear for cycling commuters. They asked me to review their essentials case, so I've been trying it out on my bike rides. My honest first impression of this cycling wallet is that I didn't immediately see the need for it. When I go out on my bike I carry my phone in a pocket, keys in another pocket, wallet in another pocket. I already had a place to put these things, so why do I need a case? But when I thought about it, the essentials case made perfect sense. This case keeps all those things together instead of stashed all over the place where they are more likely to go missing. At the very least it removes that frustration of trying to locate your stuff every time you step off the bike. From day one of using this I became much more organised and didn't have to fumble around pockets or panniers for my essential belongings. I became a convert. The essentials case is genius! More organised I loved that my prep for a bike ride was simply putting all my valuables in the case and slipping the case in the back pocket of my cycling jersey. Job done! When I got off the bike to visit a shop or cafe I only had to look in the case to get what I needed instead of searching through multiple pockets and bags. The case is also surprisingly large so that there is plenty of room to fit in pretty much everything that you can think of. Even a pen, as you can see from my photo. In fact, you can fit a multi-tool and spare inner tube in here if you wanted to dispense with any sort of bags on your bike and still be able to do repairs on the road. The size of the case is also designed to accommodate larger models of smart phones. Fits in a pocket It is important to say that the large size of the case does not mean that it is unwieldy. It still feels compact and will easily fit in the back pockets of a cycling jersey. I would say that the size is the perfect balance between having enough space for your essentials, but not being too big as to be a pain to carry around. Taking a closer look inside, you get lots of pockets, including one with a zip. There is space for cards and straps to keep a phone in place. In short, there is a great variety of storage compartments to keep all your things nicely organised. Waterproof The essentials case is waterproof and this is the key feature that makes this ideal for cycling. When I carry a wallet on a bike ride and it rains heavily it always gets wet. Even if I stash the wallet deep into a pocket it still manages to get wet. Pulling out soggy banknotes or slippy bank cards to pay for coffee is never fun. The essentials case kept my bank cards and bank notes completely dry whenever I used it on rainy days. That included some days with very heavy downpours. The essentials case also gave water protection to my phone. In heavy downpours I previously had to pull over my bike and stash my phone deep into a panier to be sure it would not get damaged. With my phone cosy inside the essentials case I had no worries- the case always kept it dry. Take a close look at the zip and seam. This is what is helping to keep the water out. You can tell that this is a very high quality construction. Cost
The essentials case is currently £29.99. When you consider the amount of space that you get and the waterproof qualities this is good value for money. Summary Initially I was not convinced that I needed a case, but I have loved being able to keep all my valuables in one place when I go on a bike ride. Not only that, but keep them safe from the rain. The case has made my bicycle journeys much more organised and it has now become one of my essential pieces of kit.
It's like a dream. Travelling through tree tunnels, where the branches have joined together to arch over the road. This is what I enjoyed the most about this 26 mile section of National Cycle Route One. Miles of quiet, country roads with sections of woodland that turn the road into a vibrant green corridor.
Highlights of this route:
This route begins at the Spey viaduct. This is a magnificent structure and riding a bike across it is not to be missed.
It's 10 miles from the viaduct to Elgin. The path heads away from the coast, but not so far because some of these roads can get a dusting of sand.
The previous coastal sections of Route One, such as Cullen to Findochty, are spectacular. The inland sections don't have the harbours, rock formations and beaches, but there is still plenty to love.
One thing you must do is pull over and walk into the forests that border some of the roads. These woods reveal a world just as magical as the cliffs and coast.
Within minutes of walking into the forest I was struck by the stillness. I had this feeling that this place has been like this for hundreds of years and not much has changed. The forest floor was covered in moss that was decorated with tiny wildflowers.
It is tempting to put your head down and pedal fast on these roads, but that would mean missing out on experiencing the beauty of these forests.
It is also worth taking notice of the farmlands. I stopped at a pig farm and loved watching these creatures rooting about in the mud, sniffing and grunting.
Elgin
The sudden appearance of a busy town with traffic and lots of visitors is a shock to the system after the forest roads. The Cathedral is a good place to break the journey. It dates from 1224 and is one of the finest medieval buildings in Scotland. Although much of it is a ruin, plenty survives to make it easy to imagine the former grandeur of this place.
My favourite part of the building is getting to climb the spiral staircase of the towers. This gives a brilliant view over the ruins and the town.
There is some very fine architecture to discover. The octagonal chapter house is one of the best preserved parts of the site. Inside there is a stunning carved ceiling where you might just make out the remains of gold paint. There is a statue of a Bishop that tells of the quality of stone carving.
If you have time for a diversion you can follow my 24 mile cycle route to a nearby whisky distillery and Duffus Castle.
Elgin to Forres
This 16 mile section of the route has more of those quiet roads with vibrant green tree tunnels.
At Coltfield I found a group of friendly horses that were keen to investigate my bike.
Then I came across overgrown railway tracks from the closed Burghead branch line. Usually the tracks are lifted from disused railways, so it was unusual to find this. It is possible that the tracks have been lifted since my visit, but let me know in the comments.
Kinloss Abbey
Around 3 miles from Forres is the ruined Kinloss Abbey. It was founded in 1150 by King David 1 and run by a group of Cistercian monks from Melrose Abbey. The abbey declined in importance after 1560 when Protestantism became the religion of Scotland and Catholic abbeys were no longer needed. It explains the state of the buildings today and why there is very little to see.
However, the information boards provide a fascinating insight into the life of this abbey. What I did not appreciate was the large array of job titles and responsibilities that the monks had. For example, the Guest Master was responsible for travellers as abbeys provided accommodation to anyone who needed it.
The Guest Master must have been particularly busy in 1303 when Edward 1 and his army stayed for 2 weeks. They got through a year's worth of food and drink! There was also a Master of Novices who was in charge of training and coaching.
There is a handy floor plan that shows you the layout of the rooms in the abbey. Most I was familiar with, but this was the first time I had come across a Warming Room. There was no heating in the abbey so in the winter months this room helped the monks to stay warm after hours spent in the cold church and cloister.
There is a whisky distillery to see on the way into Forres. Benromach produces Speyside single malt whisky. There are tours and tastings.
Summary
This is an enjoyable section of National Cycle Route One. The highlight is the miles of quiet roads that are bordered with beautiful forests. Try some of the other sections of Route One in the Moray region of Scotland:
It is one of the greatest railway bridges in Scotland and you can walk or cycle across it. The Spey viaduct was completed in 1886 as part of the Moray Coast Railway. It crosses the third longest river in Scotland, the Spey. The bridge is around 290m long and riding across it is one of the top cycling experiences in the country.
The bridge is part of National Cycle Route One and around 4 miles from Portgordon and 10 miles from Elgin. The approach to the bridge is through a forested section. The trees hide everything and make the sudden appearance of bridge and river even more special.
Once on the bridge everything feels massive. The length of the bridge. The width of the river. The iron work on the bridge. It made me think of American railroads crossing legendary rivers, like the Mississippi.
The most impressive feature of the bridge is the central section where you enter this world of beautiful iron lattice and engineering genius. It is a special place to pause and take it all in. Being on a bike or walking allows you to really admire this, more so than if you were siting on a train. You can't do that anyway as the line closed in 1968.
Crossing this bridge was so special that I turned around and did it again! I have crossed quite a few bridges in Scotland and this one is easily the best.
What about the Glenfinnan Viaduct, I hear you ask? Yes, it is spectacular, but you cannot walk or cycle across it and that slower pace and freedom to stop makes it easier to appreciate the beauty of the Spey Viaduct.
Glenfinnan is also a very busy place in the height of the tourist season. The Spey Viaduct is less famous and I managed to get it all to myself when I cycled across it.
The West Highland Railway that crosses Glenfinnan is renowned for its scenic beauty. I am sure the Moray Coast Railway would receive similar plaudits if it was still open today. Not only does it have this viaduct, but there are magnificent viaducts in Cullen and superb coastal scenery. It is sad to see these structures no longer carrying trains that would bring visitors to the area, but I am grateful that they survive and can be enjoyed on foot or on two wheels. Near to the viaduct is Spey Bay station. It is now a private home, but I was lucky enough to be invited inside. This was a complete chance encounter and one that I am incredibly grateful for. It was a privilege to be invited into a private home that happened to be a disused railway station. Spey Bay is one of the few remaining stations from the closed Moray Coast Railway. National Cycle Route One travels over much of the old line. When I spotted this beautiful building I was astounded that it had survived when so much of this railway has long since vanished. The station is now a private home, so the last thing I expected was to be invited inside. It happened when I had stopped to take a photo of some of the surrounding countryside. A woman appeared and asked "would you like to see the station? I saw you looking at it. My husband's over there doing the gardening." She walked me over to the station and told me that their racing pigeons were starting to arrive home from Alnwick. "Took them three hours," she said, "faster than driving." I was so taken aback that I was being invited to see this wonderful building that I forgot to ask their names! The husband explained that they lived in the stationmaster's house and that he had converted the station building into a garage, workshop and billiards room. He told me that the billiard room was originally two rooms-one was the private waiting room for the Duke of Gordon. "He got the fireplace." That fireplace is still in use today. "We had the stationmaster come to visit. He was in his 90s. He was in charge of several stations in the area and they gave him a scooter to travel between them." There are some great artifacts from the original station like the benches and signage. However, he showed me some old photos that had a footbridge."They took that away and the beautiful signal box." Another photo, from the Second World War, showed the platform busy with servicemen. There had been a Royal Air Force base here and it explains the name of the adjacent road- 'Beaufighter Road.' "Ideal weather for flying up here", he said, "no fog." After my look around the station we shook hands. I felt very lucky to have been invited to see this. It is these kind of encounters that make travel special and rewarding. Spey Bay station is in Moray, around 5 miles from Buckie. The station opened in 1886 and closed in 1968.
Spey Bay station is near to the Spey viaduct, one of the most spectacular bridges in Scotland. You can cross it by bike or foot. Cycling as a sport is a tradition that has been there for ages. People cycle for different reasons. Some people do it out of a need to exercise, some cycle for charity. Others cycle for fun and to catch up with fiends whom you may not have enough time to interact with, and therefore create time to catch up while undertaking a favorite or common activity.
Families are often seen cycling. This is because in the current fast paced life, it is continuously becoming challenging for families to be able to stay together to bond and relate. Often children are away in education institutions as their parent’s report to different locations for work. Do you take into considerations the weather outside before you go and enjoy cycling? The answer could be a yes or a no, depending on your love for cycling. It’s forever beautiful to have online cycling games; you have a variety to choose from. Is it cycling genres from racing to stunts? Or from rugged mountaintops to the innermost streets within the city? Whichever way or direction you choose to go, it is always fun and fun. Poker run This is a game where cycling enthusiasts participate in a planned event, during which the designated members are allowed to use any mode of transport. This may include motorcycles, bicycle, or vehicles. Each participant is expected to report to the five to eight designed stations called checkpoints and play card. It however does not mean that the more cards are planed cards is the winner. Cycling for charity Many are the times that cyclists have come together to create a group that is enthusiastic about supporting a particular type of people with need. The group’s common interest is cycling but they are out to satisfy a particular need in the community. Such are forums that have a cause to run. Previous similar events have evoked both positive and negative reactions owing to a variety of opinion from people. While cycling is a good way to engage in physical activity, especially so with individuals who are rarely on the run, some people in the public view this as a non straight forward way of raising funds for charity. Some would rather just contribute to give. Funds and grants offered for the needy groups have been a notable positive outcome of such runs alongside meeting specific targets. Benefits of cycling; · Remain fit and keep illnesses at bay One of the proven ways that you can use to effectively remain fit is by maintaining a regular program of cycling. To do this, you do not need a physical attendance in your indoor gym. Gyms can be expensive and require a great deal of effort to ensure that you report to the gym as often as one would like. This is attributed to the fact that you will need to maintain a particular regime, which over time, may become too monotonous. Besides, cycling out in the natural is more interesting and engaging in comparison to cycling within four walls in a non moving machine. · Recreation This is one way individuals can use to reconnect with nature and with yourself. Many are the times that life activities swallow up its participants coupled with a fair share of a stressful life. Cycling can be used as a way to alleviate this negative energy and unwanted stress. · Socialization You may end up making more friends from that group of fellow cyclists. · Weight loss regime through intense cardio involvement Cycling is one of the high energy activities recommended for those interested for cardio kind of activities. · Clear the mind. · Sightseeing. There is a lot you can see on a simple road trip while cycling. By staying close to cyclists, you will be able to learn more about the cycling sport and its direct benefits. Bet365 bonus code no deposit is a platform that just like its name, allows you to get more insight on how how you can incorporate this sport into a fruitful mission of serving the community. Cycling has been incorporated into the online casino arenas where lovers of the sport can engage in the virtual version of cycling. This also means that you can gain money or cryptocurrency upon winning. The sub-varieties to these cycling games are many and inexhaustible with much software being discovered daily. Indeed, this is one of the ways of keeping yourself busy while at the same earning some money. Statistics about online cycling games The cycling industry was not prepared for any changes especially surrounding the emergence of the pandemic. According to the Guardian, a former professional cyclist reported an increase of 300% year-on-year growth in daily activity. He also put forth claims to have 2.8 million accounts registered across 190 countries.
This 9 mile section of National Cycle Route One is on the Moray coast. It may not be as spectacular as the Cullen to Findochty leg, but it has plenty of interest. In particular, the remnants of the Moray Coast Railway and fishing heritage in Buckie.
Findochty to Buckie
Leaving Findochty the route heads slightly inland and then joins a disused railway path. I always have mixed feelings about the closure of railway lines. On the one hand it means the brilliant traffic-free cycle path that we can enjoy today, but it also means the loss of an important transportation link.
The bridge and platform at Portessie are reminders of what used to be. The last time that someone would have stood on this platform to wait for a train was in 1968, the year the line was closed.
Buckie
3.5 miles from Findochty is Buckie, which means place of the male deer in Gaelic. Buckie is one of the largest towns in Moray and it is somewhat of a shock to be thrown into a busier world. The approach into Buckie is through residential streets with large roundabouts. The harbour area is functional, with buildings associated with fish processing. The queues at the 'Eat Mair Fish' shop are testament to the popularity of locally caught seafood. Buckie feels like a place to pass through rather than stop in, but it is worth taking a look at Cluny Square where there is a fine ensemble of Victorian buildings. Pause at the war memorial where the faces of the soldiers are detailed and beautiful.
Fishing heritage in Buckie
Take a wander down the streets with rows of granite and sandstone cottages. These had been built with money from the boom years of the herring industry in the 1800s. They had an upstairs that was used for storing and repairing fishing nets. This was reached by a ladder on the outside of the house, so that the ground floor living area was kept free of muck. There's more to learn about this legacy in the Buckie and District Fishing Heritage Centre. Although small, it is full of interesting things. The boat models are incredibly detailed. Look through a window on the lifeboat and you will see a cup of tea resting on a sink. Railway structures After a few minutes of cycling you will reach another reminder of the railway era, a gorgeous iron footbridge at Buckpool.
Further on and there is a double arched bridge.
Portgordon
Two miles from Buckie there is a sweep of sand and coast that leads you into Portgordon.
Portgordon was founded by the 4th Duke of Gordon. It was once a busy fishing village, but the harbour is now mainly used for pleasure vessels.
The village was once nicknamed 'Paraffin City.' The street lighting was powered with paraffin and it was one of the last settlements in the area to get electric lights. Portgordon had an important role in the Second World War when three German spies turned up at the train station. The spies had been dropped off by an aircraft and made their way by dinghy to the mainland. The stationmaster was suspicious and contacted the police who made an arrest.
Like the other coastal villages on this section of Moray's coast it is surprisingly low key in its offerings for visitors. It has a perfect location that seems ripe for things like seafood restaurants and gift shops, but the lack of such offerings is what makes these villages special. You get to enjoy them as they are without distractions and the crowds that would come for the distractions.
4 more miles on National Cycle Route One will take you to the Spey viaduct, one of the most magnificent bridges in Scotland. I love that there are more and more sustainable cycling products available and this is the first time I have come across a recycled cycling jersey. It's from Craft Cadence, a London company that specialises in gear for cycling commuters. They asked if I could review one, so I tried it out over the summer and pretty much love everything about it. I always use a cycling jersey in warmer weather. Although the main market for this type of clothing is road cyclists I have always used jerseys when cycle touring and for commuting. I Find them to be the best clothing to keep me cool because of their wicking action. The close fit is ideal for cycling and the quality makes them pretty indestructible, they tend to last forever. The rear storage pockets often mean I don't need to carry a bag. Would a recycled jersey provide all these features? Initially I was a bit concerned that a jersey made from recycled material would not match the performance capabilities of a standard cycling jersey. I had no need to worry. From the moment I put this garment on I found it to be as good as any other jersey I have used. Comfort, fit and style I loved the feel of the material. It felt nice against my skin. I tried comparing the feel of it to one of my standard cycling jerseys and could not notice enough of a difference. The fit was great. Just the right balance. It was close fitting, but not body hugging. I like the teal colour with the black dots. I think it looks awesome. It also comes in orange and a couple of designs in black. Testing the jersey on a warm day I wore the jersey on some really warm days. Twenty-five degrees might not sound much, but this is Scotland and I start to feel too hot in anything over 17 degrees! Not once did I feel sweaty as the jersey did its job brilliantly of wicking away the moisture. At the end of one of those warm days a smell test showed that the jersey didn't need to go in the wash. I could get a good few rides out of it before it needed a wash. When I did wash it the jersey came out looking as good as new, and its probably had over 15 washes since I got it. Pockets and other features The three rear pockets are well made and reinforced. Anything that you keep in there will not be falling out if you happen to bounce over something during your ride. One of the pockets has a small zipped section, for a bit of extra security for belongings. There is some reflective material under the pockets, but it doesn't seem like very much for it to be that effective. However, with bike lights and reflectors it will be an addition to your arsenal of night time safety measures. Made from recycled plastic bottles
Cycling is sustainable transport, so all of the gear that comes with it should also be sustainable. That's why I was thrilled to come across a cycling jersey that is made from recycled bottles. My review has shown that the recycled material is up to the job and I could detect no difference when compared to the material of a standard jersey. Cost £64.99 (November 2021). Cycling jerseys are performance clothing and built to last, so they will pay back the cost by lasting for years and helping to make your rides comfortable. Summary This is a quality cycling jersey that looks great and feels great to wear. It is robust and does a superb job of keeping you cool in hot weather. The fact that it is made from recycled material makes me love it even more.
It is only 4 miles from Cullen to Findochty, but it's one of the best coastal bike rides in Scotland. This short stretch of National Cycle Route One packs in beaches, rock formations and seaside villages.
Cullen Cullen has a grand backdrop of railway viaducts, a sweeping bay and a good selection of antique shops. It is also where Cullen Skink, Scotland's famous fish soup, was created. The cycle route leaves Cullen on the railway viaducts, the perfect spot to look down upon the sparkling blue sea and inviting sands of Cullen Bay. Find out more on my reasons to visit Cullen blog
Bow Fiddle Rock
15 minutes of cycling will take you to the Bow Fiddle Rock, one of the most spectacular coastal formations in Scotland. Find out more on my blog about the Bow Fiddle Rock
Three creeks shore
It is not just the Bow Fiddle Rock that is impressive around here. An area called three creeks shore has a shingle beach, caves and rock formations that were formed 650 million years ago. It thrives with bird life, including Common Eider Ducks, Rock Doves and Shags.
Portknockie
This village is close to the Bow Fiddle Rock. One of the most striking things about it is the position of the houses, atop the high cliffs.
The harbour is sheltered by a huge rock formation and has an outdoor swimming pool.
Findochty
It takes less than 15 minutes to cycle along the gravel track to the next village, Findochty. This is my favourite part of the whole route. It is worth parking your bike and walking to the edge where the coastal scenery reveals itself in all its glory. Sea birds put on a show by swooping elegantly to land on precarious cliff edges.
The approach to Findochty is glorious. The downhill gravel track means you can ease off the pedals and sit back and enjoy that first sight of the white church sitting above the village and the sweep of a sandy bay. That church is what gives the place its distinctive look and makes the arrival into the village so special and memorable.
Findochty, despite its obvious beauty, is not a touristy place. Gift shops, seafood restaurants and ice cream parlours are lacking. It surprises me that this location has not been exploited for tourism, but that's also what gives it such appeal. You don't feel like you have ended up somewhere that everyone else has ended up in just because it has 'stuff' for visitors to do. Instead you get to enjoy the place for what it is and it feels all the more special for that.
A wander around the streets reveals pretty cottages that were built for fishing families.
And it is worth a wander up to Findochty Church, the building on the elevated position that makes the village look so impressive and distinctive. It dates from 1863 and for the next 24 years, until a bell was installed, a fog horn was used.
How to get here
The path between Cullen and Fincochty is part of National Cycle Network Route One, but if you are not doing that route the best way to reach the path is from Keith. There's a train station here and it is a 14 mile ride using quiet B-roads to get to Cullen. There is a full description of this route in my blog about the Willows Tearoom.
Steve Silk cycles the route of Britain's most prestigious road, the London to Edinburgh road. It is now called the A1, but until 1921 it was called the Great North Road. With each pedal stroke the author experiences more of the towns, landscapes and remarkable history of this route.
The journey is around 500 miles over 11 days and Steve wonderfully describes the sense of adventure when heading north: "For reasons that I can't quite explain, the compass point is important. Which proper traveller can resist a road sign with a crisp, white arrow pointing to "The North" in no-nonsense sans-serif?" Steve came across the books of Charles G. Harper who wrote about doing the same journey over 100 years ago. Throughout the book Steve reflects on Harper's experiences of places along the way, nicely weaving this with modern day comparisons. In honour of Harper, Steve buys an old fashioned bike, a Jamis Aurora, to do the journey on the 100th anniversary of the A1. The adventure begins in a cool London bike cafe called Look Mum No Hands. Steve's description of travelling through busy London is brilliant and really captures the atmosphere and sights of the capital. I love that he records that sudden moment when London ends, the buzz is replaced with greenery and tranquility at a place called Hadley Green. I imagine that this is the kind of detail that you are more likely to notice travelling by bicycle and miss if you are driving. The heyday of the Great North Road was when stagecoaches raced up and down it. For me this was the most fascinating aspect of the journey and the book is interspersed with tales of the romance of the coaching era. The most visible legacy of that time is the coaching inn and Steve visits many of them along the way and there is a lovely round up of his favourite ones at the end of the book. I found that his writing about this period was very evocative and it really felt like I was stepping back in time. I learned so much about parts of Britain that I am unfamiliar with. For example, the commuter town of Stevenage had been planned as cycle-friendly in the 1950s and 60s with 26 miles of cycle lanes. Then there is the Bedfordshire clanger- a pastry with meat filling at one end and a sweet filling at the other! That was one of the great joys of this book, discovering new things about Britain. On his route Steve visited the birthplace of Newton that still has the famous apple tree in the grounds. He even visited inside Margaret Thatcher's childhood home. I am ashamed to say that I had no knowledge of these places before reading this book. The lesson I have learned is that a cycle touring adventure in Britain can be just as revealing and as exciting as any journey that you might take overseas. The Scotland section of the road is mostly in East Lothian. Steve uses routes familiar to me and his writing captures the landscapes and sights of the area really well. The Great North Road is a captivating read. Here is an adventure that we can do in our own country, with so much to see and experience along the way. I loved how the book beautifully combined the past and present stories of the road, in particular transporting the reader back to the era of stagecoaches. Reading this book made me want to book some nights in historic coaching inns and jump on my bike to get there. Scotland has some magnificent coastal rock formations. One of my favourites is the Bow Fiddle Rock on the north-eastern coast. It is near Portknockie in Moray. The rock was sculpted by the crashing waves of the North Sea into a shape that looks like a fiddle bow. Photos of the rock look good, but they don't prepare you for how magnificent it is in real life. It is not just the first sight of this uniquely shaped rock that captivates you, but it is the sense of where you are. On the edge of Scotland, on a cliff looking down at something that was created by the might of the sea. The stack is teaming with seabirds, like herring gulls. Their cries drown out the sound of water lapping up to the rock. And then your eye is drawn beyond the rock to the endless expanse of the sea. It is a place where it is easy to appreciate the beauty of our planet. Come here and take a seat for a while. Absorb everything you see, hear, smell and feel. Whenever you need a moment of escape let your mind to take you back to the day you visited the Bow Fiddle Rock. How to get here
The Bow Fiddle Rock is about a 15 minute walk from Portnockie Harbour, along the cliffs path. From Cullen it is a 15 minute cycle. Cullen is on National Cycle Network Route One, but if you are not doing that route the best way to reach the town is from Keith. There's a train station there and it is a 14 mile ride using quiet B-roads. There is a full description of this route in my blog about the Willows Tearoom. For ideas of things to see and do in Cullen, visit my blog about Cullen and my review of the Cullen Bay Hotel. Name a Scottish coastal town. I imagine you are thinking of somewhere like Oban, Ullapool or Saint Andrew's. Did you think of Cullen? I don't think it is on the radar for many visitors, but it should be and this is why: Beaches, the sea, the harbour They are the building blocks of a great coastal town. Cullen has the beautiful beaches, the harbour with the bobbing boats and the sea views. Seatown Seatown is an area of Cullen that once housed a fishing community when the town was a major fishing port. It is characterised by small cottages, many brightly painted with front doors that open directly onto the winding streets. The dense form of Seatown makes it difficult to drive through, so it is a pleasure to wander here, uninterrupted by traffic. I will always remember the smell of the salty sea mixed with freshly laundered clothes on washing lines. The Ice Cream Shop You expect to get a good ice cream in a coastal town. The Ice Cream Shop on Seafield Street does a fine range of flavours. I tried both the rum and raisin, and the coffee. The coffee one, laced with chocolate chips, was particularly delicious. For the perfect spot to eat your cone head to the nearby benches that overlook Seatown and the harbour. Cullen Skink at the Cullen Bay Hotel Seafood is the other type of cuisine that a coastal town should do well, and Cullen has a major claim to fame in that department. Cullen Skink, the famous Scottish dish of fish, potatoes and cream, was created here. The Cullen Bay Hotel does one of the best I have tasted and it is also the host venue of the World Cullen Skink Championships. I stayed at the hotel and you can read my review. Antiques Cullen is a bit of a treasure trove for antique lovers with Shops like Cullen Antiques Centre and Bits N' Bobs packed with curiosities, like these vintage bicycles in the photo. Railway viaducts The Moray Coast Railway must have been one of the most scenic lines in the country, until it was closed in the 1960s. One very visible legacy of the railway is the viaducts in Cullen. They provide a spectacular focal point in the town and you can still walk or ride a bike across them to experience the views that train passangers would have enjoyed. Deskford Church and Garden Galleries Around 4 miles south of Cullen there is a ruined sixteenth century church with a beautiful carved Sacrament House. Nearby is the Deskford Garden Galleries with antiques, art and a wonderful vintage tea room experience. Read my blog about this place to find out more. Bow Fiddle Rock One of Scotland's most spectacular coastal rock formations is just a 15 minute bike ride from Cullen. The rock is located closer to the next town, Portknockie, but is very easy to visit from Cullen. My blog on the Bow Fiddle Rock gives you a good idea of what it is like to experience this place.
How to get to Cullen Cullen is on National Cycle Network Route One, but if you are not doing that route the best way to reach the town is from Keith. There's a train station here and it is a 14 mile ride using quiet B-roads to get to Cullen. There is a full description of this route in my blog about the Willows Tearoom. Inspire.Repeat is a Dublin company that produces a range of cycling socks. They have an eye catching design and technical features that make them suited to bike riding. I put them to the test. Unique design The socks come in a selection of bold colours with words that capture the passion that cyclists have for their sport. Current choices include 'inspire, repeat', 'road hero', and 'no pain, no gain.' The design looks great and will appeal to those who want to be noticed. Cycling socks can be pretty bland and functional, but these are interesting. I was excited about receiving them in the post, which is not something you normally say about socks. A great feeling When I tried them for the first time I was struck by how rigid they are compared to normal socks and I had to pull them quite a bit to get them on. This is a sign that they are built to last and this tightness is what stopped them from falling down or bunching up inside my show. They felt soft against my feet and really comfortable. Performance
The socks are made of something called PROLEN®YARN which is light, but lasts longer than cotton or wool. It is also a quick drying material. After a couple of months of using these socks I have been impressed. Best thing about them is that they are built to last as they still feel and look like they did when new out of the box. I have bought similarly priced socks from other manufacturers and been disappointed at how quickly they started to fail. In one case it was a matter of weeks before my toe was poking out! However, the Inspire.Repeat socks have had no such issues. Warm weather There was a week of hot weather and I wore the socks everyday on my bicycle commutes. Although my feet felt warm in the socks, they were not uncomfortably hot. There was no build up of sweat, so the material must have been wicking away the moisture. After 5 days I dared to sniff the socks and they smelt fine, certainly not of smelly feet. Don't worry, I did eventually wash the socks, but I just wanted to see how well they would perform. They have been through the washing machine more times than I can remember, but they always come out looking like they are new. Wet weather I have used the socks on rainy days and they kept my feet dry. This was normal rain, nothing too heavy and the duration of the ride was 30 minutes. To be honest, I don't expect any cycling sock to keep me dry in the worst of the worst rain. That's what overshoes are for. I am more than happy that these socks kept me dry for typically rainy conditions on a short commute. Considering that these socks come out of the washing machine almost dry they can probably stand up to a good soaking, or at least dry pretty quickly once the storm has passed. Sustainability Inspire.Repeat have a strong commitment to lessening their impact on the environment. There is a CO2 offset for every order and the amount of water used to produce the yarn is a lot less than is needed for cotton. They don't use pesticides or toxic dyes. These socks preform well on the bike and they are going to last a very long time because of the high quality of the material and construction. The design with the colours and motivational words is unique and adds to the appeal of this product. Take a closer look at the Inspire.Repeat website for great images of the socks. Let me know if you get a pair and what you think of them.
Cullen Skink is one of Scotland's most famous dishes. It is a fish soup made with potatoes, onions, milk and/or cream. It is delicious and one of my favourite Scottish foods.
I have to confess that, until recently, I had no idea there was an actual place in Scotland called Cullen, and that the soup originated here. I also discovered that Cullen is a coastal town famed for its beaches, harbour and relaxed atmosphere. That was it, I had to go! And where better to try the soup than the Cullen Bay Hotel, the host venue and previous winner of the Cullen Skink World Championships? Hotel location Overlooking Cullen Bay this hotel has probably the best location in town for views.
A short walk from the front door and you are on the beach, via the golf course. A main road, the A98, is right in front of the hotel and you must cross this to begin the walk down to the beach. The hotel is not in the centre of the town, but you can walk there in about 15 minutes.
This area of Scotland, the Moray coast is spectacular, but does not seem to get talked about as much as some other parts of the country. How many people would say Cullen when asked to think of a Scottish coastal town or village? I felt like I had come across an undiscovered part of the country, but that's just me. If you are looking for places in Scotland that might be less busy with visitors then Cullen could be a good choice. Rooms There are 14 rooms and some have sea views, but they are more expensive. My room, without a sea view, was cosy with very comfortable beds.
Dinner
Coming to the restaurant was like one of those TV ads for the perfect holiday. Someone shows you to your table and it has the most gorgeous view of the sea. The sky has no clouds and the water is a tranquil dark blue. It was time to try Cullen Skink, in Cullen. I was was surprised to see not one, but two types of Cullen Skink on the menu. There was the traditional option and there was 'Cullen Skink With a Twist.' The 'twist' version had sherry, port jam and smoked haddock marinated in dark molasses. I wanted to try the original version and it more than lived up to my expectations. It was thick and creamy, with succulent fish and the satisfying potato chunks that make this such a filling meal. I have tasted a lot of Skinks and this was definitely one of the best. Actually, it was the best because it was delicious and I was eating it in Cullen with this magnificent view. For my main course I had the Fisherman's Pie, with salmon, haddock and prawns. It looked small, but it was packed with chunky bits of fish and a thick, creamy sauce.
Stroll on the beach after dinner
Take advantage of the hotel's location and head down to the beach after dinner, particularly in the summer when it is still light at 9pm.
From the hotel's front door it is a short walk across the golf course to the beach. The sand is soft and there might be a gentle wind sweeping across it. Let your mind relax and focus on the waves rolling in. Turn around and look back towards the hotel where you had just enjoyed Cullen Skink and you will feel very fortunate to have experienced this place.
Look out for the wildflowers growing here.
The sunsets are spectacular and during my stay I noticed that someone had written in the sand "last night here. Maggie is sad." I know exactly how she felt, it is a place that you don't want to leave.
Breakfast
The breakfast menu here is excellent with items like smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, grilled haddock with a poached egg and haggis with poached eggs. I tried the French toast and it was perfect. How to get here Cullen is on National Cycle Network Route One, but if you are not doing that route the best way to reach the town is from Keith. There's a train station there and it is a 14 mile ride using quiet B-roads. There is a full description of this route in my blog about the Willows Tearoom. |
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