This book, by Dominic Gill, records an epic cycling journey that starts in Alaska and ends in the southernmost city in South America. There are huge distances- 18,449 miles- beautiful landscapes and physical and mental challenges. Similar adventures have been written about, but this one has a key difference- it is done on a tandem bicycle. The author sets out alone on the tandem and picks up strangers along the way, 270 of them. It is a unique twist on the familiar tale of a man fed up with his job and yearning to do something different and finds the answer in a long distance bicycle trip.
"The attractiveness of bicycle travel struck me then more than ever before. No windows blocking out life's real accompaniment. No travel-induced sleep causing you to miss the small stand selling bright, shiny mandarins or mouth-watering fruity juice. From the seat of a bicycle, everybody and everything has a voice, a smell, an influence on your immediate future."
This quote perfectly illustrates the effectiveness of Gill's writing style in capturing the beauty of travel. It also demonstrates the author's love of cycle touring, but the book doesn't start out that way.
Gill has taken a very honest approach to the first chapter of this book and recalls the sense of dread and nervousness that overcame him in the first days of his journey. He paints a rather bleak picture and nothing you will read in these first few pages will inspire you to copy this trip. I thought that it perfectly captured those feelings of loneliness and despair that an adventurer is likely to experience and this immediately made the author likable and human. It made me want to read on and discover if things got better for him.
They did get better and his morale greatly improves as the journey progresses, largely as a result of the incredible hospitality of the people that he meets along the way. It takes a bit of time before he picks up his first passenger on the tandem, but they soon become a regular feature. I had assumed that he would be picking up locals looking to travel in the same direction. There are some locals, but it is mostly other travellers with time on their hands to take a turn as "stoker", the name given to the rear cyclist on a tandem.
I was slightly disappointed that I was not going to learn very much about the local people and their way of life from the type of passengers that he was carrying. He has more interactions with locals from his daily living like eating and arranging a place to sleep and these encounters paint a vivid picture of the cultures and countries that he passes through, more so than the majority of the tandem passengers. In fact, there is perhaps a lack of detail about the people that sit on the back of his bike, considering that this is the main premise of the book.
Not all of the tandem passengers prove to be worthy companions and Gill is upfront about the annoyance that some of them cause him. For example, the passengers that do not put in their fair share of effort so that he has to do all of the work and drag them along whilst they coast in the back seat. It is another honest portrayal of the realities of adventure cycle touring.
What I liked the best about this book is that there was more of a focus on what the author was seeing and experiencing in the 15 countries that he travels through than on the fine details of cycling. This made up for any feelings that the encounters with passengers lacked some punch.
The book is incredibly well-written and the author has a talent for making you feel like you are there. He is a great observer and uses all of his senses to perfectly capture a place in words. This quote is a great example of this:
"Latin America is a happy land generally but Colombia is up there on the podium. Even construction workers leaning on their shovels and watching us go by made the happiest clowns look like mere amateurs. "
This book was a joy to read and if you fancy giving it a go you can purchase it from Amazon by clicking on the image below:
One of the most magnificent landmarks in the Scottish Borders is the Leaderfoot Viaduct. It is a breathtaking sight with its 19 arches that span the River Tweed. The good news is that it is very easy to travel to. A 4 mile cycle from Tweedbank station on the Borders Railway will take you right there.
The Borders Railway makes it easy to visit the viaduct. The last stop on the line, Tweedbank (around 55 minutes from Edinburgh), has a cycle path beginning at the station. This is well signposted, so just follow the blue cycle route signs to Melrose. This route is a mixture of traffic-free cycle path and quiet roads.
Once in Melrose you might want to explore a bit as this is one of Scotland's finest towns with lots to see. Read my blog about Melrose for ideas of things to do.
In Melrose head north on Abbey Street which becomes Annay Road. You will pass Melrose Abbey and soon reach The Abbey Mill. This began life as a corn mill, likely for the Abbey. Later it supplied barley to the Abbey brewery. These days the building houses a country clothing shop with a tea room upstairs.
I popped in for coffee and a scone that was still warm from the oven. It was fluffy inside and one of the best I have tasted. The room has enormous sash windows that let the sun pour in.
Once you reach the end of Annay Road you turn left, onto the B6361, to proceed through the village of Newstead. Oh-so-pretty cottages are jammed right against the road on both sides, flowers spilling from window boxes. Country village perfection indeed.
Once you reach the end of the village you take a left and then the first right (there are cycle route signs showing the way). This will take you to a road that has a gate across it, meaning a traffic-free cycle from here to the viaduct.
This road takes you through the site of a Roman fort called Trimontium. This is the largest Roman site in Scotland. You will come across this stone that summaries the story of the fort:
At regular intervals, along this road, there are interpretive panels that tell you more about the fort. There were several people walking this route and stopping by the panels.
Trimontium was a cavalry fort that housed about 1000 troops. It was well furnished with an amphitheater and bath house. Archaeological digs uncovered amazing objects, like a brass face mask with elaborately braided hair, a bronze cavalry parade helmet and a stash of silver coins. Most of these items can be seen in the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh and some at a museum in Melrose.
The first sight of the viaduct will blow you away. Queen Victoria described it as "immense" and that is exactly what it is. After miles of tranquil countryside and fields this man made structure suddenly appears and dominates, but in a way that seems to enhance the landscape.
It is interesting that we regard these once functional structures as beautiful and not detracting from the natural environment that they rest in. However, a nearby road bridge that carries the A68 over the river would be generally considered as ugly. You cannot deny that these Victorian railway structures have an elegance that is rarely matched by modern equivalents.
The road proceeds under the viaduct, but just before it does you will notice a staircase. Stash the bike and jump up there to take a look at the top of the viaduct.
Unfortunately you cannot walk across the viaduct as it is fenced off, but you are able to look down the grass covered track bed.
I found reference to a plan to have some train carriages with a tearoom and museum parked on the viaduct, but this never came to fruition. I quite enjoyed its forgotten state as it meant using my imagination to picture trains crossing it and to simply enjoy the thrill of being so close to such a magnificent structure.
The road beneath the viaduct provides the perfect vantage point to marvel at the incredible height and scale of the arches. From a distance the columns of the arches seem very slender, but close up they look indestructible.
Cycle on to the old stone bridge. It is from here that the best views of the Leaderfoot Viaduct can be had. This bridge dates from 1776. It used to carry the A68 road until it was replaced in 1974 by the adjacent modern bridge. Only cyclists and pedestrians can use this old bridge today, so you are able to pause here for as long as you like.
The story of the viaduct is that it was built to carry a railway branch line to Duns and then connect with the East Coast mainline. It opened in 1865. There was a storm in the late 1940s that caused damage to the line and passenger trains ceased at that point. Freight was still hauled across the viaduct until 1965 when the line was finally closed.
Although the Borders Railway from Edinburgh saw trains return to this part of Scotland it is unlikely that the route across the viaduct will open anytime soon. Even in its heyday the line received small numbers of passengers.
Across Scotland there are many remnants of railway infrastructure and this viaduct is one of the most magnificent. I thoroughly recommend coming here and with it being so easy to get to using train and bicycle there is no excuse not to! Why not bring a picnic?
The Leaderfoot Viaduct is one of many places that you can reach easily from the Borders Railway terminus at Tweedback. Here are some other ideas:
Visit one of Scotland's best independent bookshops- Mainstreet Trading in St. Boswells.
Head to Scott's View, one of the most beautiful views in the Scottish Borders.
Explore Melrose where you will find a great selection of shops, an abbey and beautiful gardens.
For a great day of exploring in the Scottish Borders take the train to Tweedbank and join the cycle path right at the station. It only takes 8 miles of cycling to see an abbey, an enormous statue of William Wallace, an outdoor sculpture and one of Scotland's finest views.
The Borders Railway makes it easy to visit the Scottish Borders. The last stop on the line, Tweedbank (around 55 minutes from Edinburgh), has a cycle path at the station. This will take you on a mostly traffic-free journey to the attractions highlighted on this blog.
After 1.75 miles you will arrive in Melrose, one of Scotland's most charming towns. Read my blog about Melrose for ideas of things to see and do in the town.
Just after Melrose the route takes you onto a road that is closed to vehicle traffic. This involves a steep climb, but this is followed by a smile-inducing descent. After passing through Newtown St. Boswells the route requires a crossing of the busy A68, but this is a simple case of pushing the bike over to the large island in the middle of the road and then pushing it over to the other side. This will set you off on a minor road that descends towards the River Tweed.
Dryburgh Suspension Bridge
Here you will find a suspension bridge, built by the Earl of Buchan. In fact, this Earl had a hand in most of the things that you will see on this journey. There is something exciting about crossing a bridge on a bicycle- the river views being seen from an elevated position and the fact that you can easily stop in the middle and watch the water flowing beneath you. This bridge has a walkway of worn planks that shoogle as bicycle tyres pass over them.
Temple of the Muses
On the other side of the bridge you will notice a round Greek-looking structure on top of a hillock, among woods. This is the Temple of the Muses. It can be reached by following the cycle path around the corner where you will find a gate and a short path up to the temple.
The temple was built by the 11th Earl of Buchan to honour the Scottish Borders poet, James Thomson. Thomson lived in the 18th century and famously penned the lyrics to 'Rule, Britannia!' The bust on the top of the temple is Thomson.
Inside the temple there is a sculpture of bronze figures, representing the Four Seasons which was a series of poems by Thomson. The sculpture was installed in 2002- prior to this there had been a statue of Apollo with 9 muses that went missing.
The naked figures are clasping each other in a supportive embrace. All have different facial expressions. I was fascinated by the face with the eyes closed and head looking down, clearly deep in thought. What is she thinking?
This is simply a lovely spot to spend a bit of time. The bridge, the temple, the sound of the river- it is perfect. In the Springtime there are clumps of snowdrops to add a touch of panache to the woods around the temple.
Just a two minute cycle will bring you to the next attraction on this tour. It is a classic ruin in the countryside, like something from one of those romanticised 19th century paintings.
The abbey is renowned as the burial place of Walter Scott, one of Scotland's most famous novelists. Earl Haig, the commander of British forces for part of the First World War, is also buried here.
Although the abbey is a ruin there is a lot that has survived. The immense size of the windows and doorways is awe-inspiring and the quality of the stone carving incredible.
I put my hand on the stone. It felt sturdy and strong and must have taken some effort to destroy. Successive attacks by English armies left Dryburgh in its present state. It was burned down in 1322, then re-built, then smashed up again in 1385, re-built again, and destroyed a final time in 1544.
The same Earl of Buchan who built the Temple of the Muses acquired the ruins in 1786 and took them into his care. He saw himself as a champion of Scotland's heritage and worked to preserve what was left of the building. He is also buried here.
The site is incredibly peaceful and gives a good impression of a canon's life of devotion and tranquility. Visit on a weekday in spring and there will be few other visitors. There will be birdsong and daffodils to brighten your walk.
The Chapter House is one of the best preserved parts of the building as it still has a roof and walls. Inside there was Gregorian chant music on a sound system and I took a seat to listen and imagine the life of a canon. They took a vow of silence and had to pray eight times a day, even in the early hours of the morning. If they looked sleepy an official would shine a lantern in their face. The canons had piss-pots under their robes so that they could relieve themselves without interrupting their duties.
Coffee at Dryburgh Abbey Hotel
Next to the abbey there is a baronial hotel. It must be a fine place to stay with its large bay windows, riverside location and garden walks, but I came for the coffee. There are lounges with sofas and armchairs that make for a relaxing cappuccino destination. The woods next to the hotel are thick with snowdrops in the spring.
Gigantic William Wallace
Do you want the good news or the bad news?
Good news is that the next item on this tour is only 5 minutes away. The bad news is that it is mostly uphill. However, it is worth it to see the incredible William Wallace statue; the very first Wallace statue in Scotland.
On leaving Dryburgh you will pass this pretty ensemble of a red telephone box, red post box and stone cottage:
Wallace is one of the most famous figures in Scotland's history, largely as a result of the 1995 Mel Gibson film. The same Earl of Buchan who built the temple and the bridge was also a big fan of Wallace and he commissioned the statue.
Leave the bike in the car park (there are racks) and take the 5 minute walk through the woods.
I was taken aback by how big this statue is. It looms up from the woods. This Wallace has a kilt and legs with bulging muscles. He carries a shield with a Saint Andrew's cross and his sword is as long as he is tall. I am sure the intention is heroic, but I think the curly beard and piercing eyes make it appear somewhat cartoonish.
1.2 miles of cycling from the Wallace statue will take you to one of Scotland's most beautiful view points. Scott's view is named after literary giant Sir Walter Scott- this was one of his favourite places in the Scottish Borders.
The view encapsulates all that is beautiful about this part of the Scottish Borders. A valley of trees, fields and river that rises to the three peaks of the Eildon Hills.
It is easy to see why Walter Scott loved it here. In fact, he came here so often that his horses knew to stop without being asked to.
The cycle is uphill with the final stretch on a twisty road. The view is already magnificent even before you reach the top, so you will be tempted to stop numerous times to take it all in. Once at the top you will find a lay-by so that cars can stop. There are benches for those who would like to sit for a while.
Every time that I come to this view I have to pinch myself that it really is this easy to reach from Edinburgh, using the train and a bicycle.
Scott's View features in my video about cycling in the Scottish Borders:
For more ideas of places to visit and cycle routes in the Scottish Borders visit my Scottish Borders page
When you're planning your next break in the UK, booking a luxury holiday cottage will ensure that you have the blissful, relaxing holiday you deserve. The UK boasts hundreds of these self catering properties, and from plush renovated cottages to cosy traditional country cottages, there's something for everyone. Whether it's a romantic trip for two or a family holiday with the little ones, a cottage allows you to have your own space away from the hustle and bustle that you might expect with a hotel. So without further ado, here's our list of the most luxurious holiday cottages in the UK:
1. Darley House in Derbyshire
A beautiful Georgian house on the edge of the Peak District National Park, Darley House is a tranquil and comfortable house where you can escape from all your work and home stresses and really relax. You can enjoy the peaceful gardens and surroundings created by former owner Sir Joseph Paxton (designer of the Crystal Palace). Soak up the luxury and history of the recently renovated property which combines all the modern comforts with the beautiful period decor to create a fantastic atmosphere.
2. Tredington Mill in Warwickshire
It's not often you can stay in a historic converted mill on its own island, with a stunning view overlooking the river. There are 2 cottages at Tredington Mill, each offering 4 cosy bedrooms. You'll feel like you've arrived at an idyllic, magical spot away from all the hustle and bustle of daily life. The original features like exposed beams and large mill windows transport you back in time and the garden and courtyard overlooking the mill pond is the perfect spot for al fresco dining. You could even do a spot of fishing!
3. Higher Scholes Cottage in Keighley
With spectacular views over the moors, a luxury hot tub, log fires and four posters, Higher Scholes is the perfect place for a romantic break for two. There's no end to the finishing touches which really make this cottage a paradise to stay in, from heated floors to fresh flowers all around the house and complimentary wine, fruit and biscuits to indulge in when you arrive. Whether you're here for a honeymoon, a holiday to mark an anniversary or just a chance to escape from the world for a few days, you'll have an unforgettable experience at Higher Scholes Cottage.
4. Oak Barn at Old North Chew Farm, Bristol
This beautiful barn conversion boasting traditional oak framing is a great choice for larger groups, sleeping up to 16 guests. You can socialise in the large private country garden, relax around the log fire or chill out in the games room. Set in picturesque countryside, there are plenty of walking routes and great local pubs nearby or you could explore the historic cities of Bristol and Bath, just a short distance away.
5. Tamar in Portmellon, Cornwall
This darling cottage with spectacular sea views is a cosy retreat for a couple or a family. Vintage leather sofas invite you to relax in the open plan living space with views over the Portmellon beach and cove, whilst the quiet reading nook is the perfect place to curl up with a book. The kids will be delighted with the great games room, stocked with PS4, flat screen TV and airplane reclining seats!
Mainstreet Trading, located in the village of St. Boswells in the Scottish Borders, is a magical place to visit. Not only is it one of the best bookshops in the country it also has a cafe, deli shop and homewares shop. This place is so good that it is worth making a special journey just to come here. The Borders Railway makes this a straightforward day trip from Edinburgh.
The Borders Railway, Scotland's newest railway line, makes it easy to visit Mainstreet Trading. The last stop on the line, Tweedbank (around 55 minutes from Edinburgh) is directly opposite a cycle path that takes you 1.75 miles to Melrose and then around 4 miles to St. Boswells. All that you have to do is follow the blue cycle route signs.
Melrose is one of Scotland's best towns with plenty to see and do and a great selection of independent shops. Read my blog about Melrose to find out more.
Cycling on a Closed Road
The sweetest part of the cycle route occurs just after Melrose where you pedal onto a road that is closed to vehicle traffic. At some point in time this road was given over to the cycle network and gates installed at either end. The white lines are faded and the cats eyes have weeds growing out of them. On a autumn day, with leaves blowing around and the verges overgrown with trees and bushes, there is something post-apocalyptic about this road.
The road features a tough uphill, but it is worth it for the fast descent waiting at the other end. There is also a fantastic viewpoint overlooking the countryside and hills.
Lookout for the Shetland ponies in one of the fields alongside the road. I saw a woman taking one for a walk- she had a West Highland Terrier on one lead and the Shetland pony on another lead.
After the closed road the route takes you through Newtown St Boswells and down to the A68. This is the point where you must deviate from the cycle route- it crosses the A68 to access quieter roads in the direction of Dryburgh Abbey, but you need to turn right and travel on the A68 for 1 mile to get to Mainstreet Trading.
The A68 is a busy road, so I used the pavement. I have done this a couple of times and have never met a pedestrian. The road is just far too narrow and fast to risk cycling it.
It will come as no surprise that The Mainstreet Trading Company is located on Main Street in St. Boswells. It is a long building with an archway that leads through to a yard, which is a good place to park the bike.
You will also notice the Mainstreet Trading van, a classic Citroen, that gets used to travel to schools. They have an ambition that every child in the Borders will be able to meet a Scottish children's author when the van comes to visit their school.
The building was originally a general store that pretty much sold everything. Supermarkets killed it in the 1970s and it was then used as an auction house prior to its current life as a bookshop.
I felt so excited about exploring this place because I had heard such good things about it. It exceeded my expectations. For someone who loves books and coffee this is a dream place to spend a few hours. They have over 7000 titles in stock and you can browse them whilst the smell of coffee tickles your nostrils.
I overheard a woman say to her companion, "It's got all the books you heard about and wanted to read." The range of books and the way that they are presented is inspiring.
The stripped wooden floor adds to the joy of walking around and browsing the books. You are encouraged to fill out a card with the name of the book that started your reading habit and post it on a wall where others have done the same.
At the cafe the cakes are displayed enticingly in a glass case with the name of the cake written on the glass. I took a slice of the chocolate vanilla layer cake and ordered the courgette soup with lemon which arrived with basil leaves and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar on the top. It was all delicious, exceptional quality food.
On the other side of the yard at the rear of the bookshop you will find the building that houses the deli and homewares department.
There is an irresistible selection of specialty foods, like olives, meats and cheeses. There is also a good selection of local produce, including beers from the Born in the Borders brewery.
The homeware department focuses on unusual independent suppliers and there is a good selection of quality stationery, cards and notebooks.
Don't just take my word for how good this place is. Mainstreet has won several awards, including Deli of the Year, Independent Bookseller of the Year, Children's Bookseller of the Year and Scottish Independent Bookshop of the Year.
It is worth having a little walk around St. Boswells for the idyllic cottages and well tended gardens. There is also a wonderful old fashioned fishing and hunting store called the Borders Gunroom.
Whether you are a proud Glaswegian or an active tourist, it’s hard not to be impressed by the River Clyde. It was the heartbeat of the British Empire back in the day, when shipbuilding and trade was essential to our national economy. The Clyde meanders through the heart of Glasgow’s city centre before flowing out towards the Firth of Clyde.
There has been significant regeneration of the Clyde Waterfront, with almost £6 billion invested in the area between Glasgow Green and Dumbarton. The riverside has become something of a tourist trap, with the old docklands transformed into much-needed housing and amenities for locals and visitors alike. The Clyde is a place for Glasgow to be proud of once again and there are ways and means for budding cyclists to explore the River Clyde on two wheels. This article outlines the sights and sounds you can encounter en-route from Glasgow city centre out towards Clydebank, Kilpatrick and beyond.
As you venture out of the city centre, you’ll ride past the Victoria Park Pond and Fossil Grove, a beautiful collection of fossilised prehistoric trees. Sports fanatics may also wish to visit the Scotstoun Sports Campus, which is home to a dedicated Squash Club and has a stadium that’s home to the Glasgow Warriors Rugby Union side. It is also the venue for an ATP tennis event on the Challenger Tour, complete with an €85,000 prize pool.
Head north-west along the Dumbarton Road and you’ll soon reach the Clydebank Museum. It is here where visitors can get a sense of Glasgow’s industrial heritage along the River Clyde. A string of permanent exhibitions are on display within the Clydebank Town Hall. The most notable is the Singer Sewing Machine exhibition, which was named a ‘Recognised Collection of National Significance’ in 2013 by the Museums Galleries Scotland. The museum used to be run by volunteers in the town, but now it has a full-time team of staff which also welcome touring exhibitions.
Continue out of Clydebank and beneath the Erskine Bridge and you will soon head through the quaint and quiet villages of Old Kilpatrick and Bowling. Those with a passion for scenery and history can get their fill of both at the nearby Dunglass and Dumbarton Castles. The latter is a spectacular Georgian castle, complete with 18th century artillery fortifications and panoramic views across Ben Lomond.
If you’re not content with heading back to the city centre and you still wish to venture further afield on two wheels, we’d recommend heading north at this point to follow the River Leven. The Renton Road (B857) is the nicest route, taking you through Jamestown and towards Balloch, which is where the River Leven opens out into the vast expanse of Loch Lomond. The SEA LIFE Loch Lomond Aquarium proves exceptionally popular with tourists, displaying a myriad of sea life, while the spectacular ocean tunnel allows visitors to walk through and feel a part of the underwater world including sharks and giant turtles.
While you are here, it’s a good idea to spend some time in and around Loch Lomond, which is the largest inland stretch of water in the United Kingdom. This freshwater Scottish loch is one of Scotland’s most popular locations for boating and water sports activities, while many hundreds of entrants visit annually for the Great Scottish Swim in August. This route from Glasgow city centre is roughly 30 miles long. If you were to cycle from start to finish, it should take you no longer than three hours, but if you take in many of the sights and sounds featured above it will certainly provide a day’s worth of entertainment and intrigue.
For those who live closer to Edinburgh than Glasgow, or are visiting the capital instead of Glasgow, budding cyclists must take a look at our Gorebridge to Crichton Castle cycle route. This short-but-sweet four-mile ride and hike gives you a chance to hop aboard the Borders Railway, the newest line in Scotland, and experience the magnificent Crichton Castle that stands isolated, complete with stunning archways and columns.
Road trips are some of the best ways to travel through a new destination. Around the world there are some amazing sights to see and the freedom that a road trip provides you with is ideally suited to exploring everything on offer. So get adventurous, fly over to a new country hire a car from the airport & get exploring.
1: Lands End To John O’Groats in England & Scotland
This is the longest road trip you can take in the UK, at only 874 miles, this trip may not be as long as some of the other trips in this guide, but going from the Southernmost point in England to the Northernmost point in Scotland is quite the trip, it would only take 17 hours to complete thee trip flat out (which is why it’s also popular for cyclists ), so we’d recommend stopping in some of the many cities on the way & exploring all the sites places like Edinburgh, London & Brighton have to offer.
2: Salar de Utini in Bolivia
So, this one isn’t technically a road, but you can drive across it and it’s truly amazing. The world’s largest salt flat is a white ocean of salt surrounded by the Andes Mountains. While you’ll have to rough camp during your time here, it’s worth the experience to see this part of South America for yourself. Just remember to take precautions against altitude sickness as the salt flats lie at 12,500 feet.
3: Transamazônica in Brazil
This is the longest road in the Amazonian region and it follows the river for much of the journey too. While it no longer passes any pure rainforest, the route is still worth it to see colonial towns, local vaqueiro driving cattle herds and beautiful countryside. Brazil has some spectacular sights and this route gives you the opportunity to really immerse yourself in the culture. Along the way, stop off at Bernardo Paz’s Inhotim arts part where you can wander the grounds and witness the amazing artistic creations.
4: Along The Coast Alicante To Barcelona - Spain
Spain is a country famous for it’s beautiful Mediterranean coastline, with quiet villages and crazy party towns along the way. There’s not much to this trip, but there’s 500km of road from Alicante to Barcelona, there are hundreds of beaches, vineyards and much more to explore, so fly over, find a hire car in Alicante and get rolling towards Barcelona (you can even catch a football game at Camp Nou).
5: Avenue of the Volcanoes in Ecuador
This road through Ecuador is truly exciting and a must for anyone travelling by car. It runs through the Avenue of the Volcanoes in the Andes and past the most famous, Cotopaxi, which is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. Beginning in Quito and ending in colonial Cuenca, you’ll pass the Devil’s Nose switchback railway, Mindo’s incredible landscapes and wildlife, and Banos’ hot springs and hiking spots. Ecuador is home to some amazing experiences and vistas and it makes for a really interesting and memorable road trip.
Now you have some Routes to look at road tripping on, you need to get everything prepared, so check out this infographic about tips & tricks for taking a road trip & get everything ready for your journey.
Andrew P. Sykes' third cycling travel book sees him tackle 7,700km across 8 countries, from Spain to Norway. It is a detailed account of the cycle route, the scenery, towns and people that he meets along the way. The writing style makes you feel that you are right there, doing the route with Andrew. There is plenty of humour and interesting experiences to make this book a great read.
This is the first of this author's cycling books that I have read. Most cycling travel books are one-offs where an author goes on a grand adventure, but Andrew P. Sykes has written about three different trips. If you like his writing style it means that you currently have three books to dig into. His writing is a mixture of factual details about the journey interspersed with dry wit and light humour. The jokes are not always laugh out loud, but they always brought a smile to my face. If you are planning to go on a similar trip from Spain to Norway then this book will prove invaluable for inspiration and practical tips and if you simply enjoy dreaming of taking these trips you are sure to love this book.
It is not just about the bike and the cycling, but also about the destinations. Andrew takes several rest days during his journey and uses these to explore some of the towns along the route, so the book gives a good idea of what these places are like from the author's sightseeing experiences. You also get a good impression of the differences in the countries that he passes through because he records his observations, including what the cycling infrastructure is like. This is also a book about people as Andrew meets many other cyclists and locals along the way. He stays in a mixture of campsites and hotels, the former giving more of an opportunity to engage with fellow travellers. He also uses the Warm Showers website, a resource for cyclists to find free accommodation offered by other cyclists.
I liked the honesty of the author. When he has a bad day he tells you about it, he is upfront about the fact that cycle touring is not always brilliant. That said, he does have an excellent time for most of the journey and it is hard not to want to repeat his journey when you read the descriptions of the landscapes and idyllic campsites. I thought his writing about the experience of cycling through Norwegian tunnels was excellent. He really captured how scary this can be and I could feel myself shudder at the thought of the passing trucks.
What really comes across is that Andrew is not one of these one-off around the world adventure cyclists, but someone who just loves to explore the world by bike and keep doing it. He doesn't pretend to be an adventurer and that's the kind of writing that is going to inspire the rest of us to try this because it comes across as accessible and something that we could all give a go.
You can buy the book from Amazon by clicking on the image below:
Melrose was rated the best place to live in Scotland in the 2018 Sunday Times Best Places to Live guide. I have been to Melrose several times and this came as no surprise to me as I find this town to be one of the most charming in Scotland. It has a fine selection of independent shops, places to eat and a magnificent Abbey to visit. Let me take you on a walk through the town...
Getting to Melrose
The Borders Railway, Scotland's newest railway line, makes it much easier to visit Melrose. The last stop on the line, Tweedbank (around 55 minutes from Edinburgh), is about 1.75 miles from Melrose. There is a cycle path to Melrose directly opposite the station. It is such a short cycle ride that you might prefer just to walk there.
There is a brilliant food and coffee kiosk at Tweedbank station. Born in the Borders is a champion for produce from the Scottish Borders region. You could pick up a nice souvenir from here, like the delicious tablet that I bought. There is even an app that allows you to pre-order your coffee so that it is ready for your arrival!
Tempest Brewing Co. is located in an industrial estate next to the station. They have a shop so that you can stock up on some of the best craft beer in the country. Read about the brewery in my blog.
Don't miss the standing stone that commemorates the opening of the railway in 2015 by the Queen. It pays tribute to the community effort involved in restoring a rail link to the area after an absence of 46 years.
Great Shops and Railway Heritage
A wander around Melrose is like stepping back in time when all of Britain's towns had shops that catered to every need. The shop fronts have elegant facades that are so perfect you would be forgiven for thinking you had stepped onto the set of a film set in the 1940s.
It is immediately noticeable that Melrose is lacking in the unfortunate characteristics of so many of Scotland's town centres- empty shop units, peeling and unloved buildings and a general lack of atmosphere. Melrose has none of this and is beautifully looked after with immaculate buildings, bright flowers and a genuinely interesting selection of stores.
There is a good selection of antique shops in Melrose. One of them is down an alleyway and was selling bird boxes made from recycled wood, displayed outside. Inside there was classical music on the radio and lots of fascinating curiosities to tempt me.
Outside the fruit shop there was an impressive display of delights, like raspberries, plums and rhubarb. I walked inside the secondhand bookshop and it had that wonderful musty smell that makes you want to spend hours exploring the shelves.
I made my way up to the old train station. It looks more like a Victorian manor house than a station, with its grand frontage of bay windows The new Borders Railway did not make it this far, but I could swear that I heard a steam train puffing. For a second I believed that a steam locomotive was on the platform until I discovered that the noise was from the extractor fan of the Italian restaurant that is now in the station.
Despite the station's new usage there are plenty of reminders of the railway's golden age. The platform still has a white picket fence, station sign and bench with a station nameplate. The canopy has vintage advertising for products like Lyon's Tea, Capstan Medium Cigarettes and Rodine ('kills rats and mice').
Take a look at the lamp posts on the platform- the stems have lovely flower motifs. A beautiful little detail that perfectly illustrates the care and attention that was once lavished upon station design.
There is something quite sad about a station no longer fulfiling its purpose; its platform now marooned alongside the busy A6091 instead of train tracks leading to Edinburgh. However, there is hope for Melrose station as there is a strong community and political desire to extend the railway here and beyond.
Amazing Ice Cream and Award Wining Pies
Dalgetty's Tea Room is the perfect place to enjoy that stepping-back-in-time feeling that Melrose creates so well. This bakery business has been around for over 100 years and the counter is loaded with an immaculate display of cakes and bread. They use tradtional ovens which are over 120 years old.
For ice cream lovers Simply Delicious is the shop to aim for. When the sun comes out there is an almost constant stream of customers. I tried the apple crumble flavour and it was amazing. There were little pieces of baked apple inside, so it perfectly replicated the taste of the dessert that it was named for. This is also an old fashioned sweet shop with shelves brimming with jars of candy delights that are measured into paper bags.
Down by the River Tweed
When you travel to the Scottish Borders it is almost impossible to avoid its mighty river, the Tweed. Melrose is situated right next to the river and one of the best places to take a look at it is from the chain bridge.
This bridge opened in 1826 and you once had to pay a toll to cross it. It feels like you are entering a castle via a drawbridge because of the iron suspension chains and the tower with the arched doorway.
The bridge still has the old signs with the list of byelaws 'by order F.P. Smart, Clerk to Joint Commitee.' There rules included no more than 8 people on the bridge at one time, not crossing in a heavy gale and not deliberately swinging the bridge. You could end up in prison for these offences!
The bridge is a good vantage point to take in the Eildon Hills, the distinctive peaks that give Melrose its attractive backdrop.
Gardens of Melrose
In the town centre there are two gardens that are havens of tranquility. Harmony Garden is free to enter and the venue for the Borders Book Festival.
The gardens belonged to a wealthy joiner, Robert Waugh, who owned a pimento plantation in Jamaica. He named Harmony House (1807) after the variety of pimento that he grew. The design of his Melrose home was also inspired by his West Indian property. Take a look at the staircase up to the front door of the Georgian House- this replicated the stairs to the front of the plantation house where they were designed to keep wild animals at bay.
You cannot visit the house, but you can rent it as a holiday home. The gardens are not huge, but they are a joy to walk around because of the beautifully presented flowers and views of the ruined abbey.
The only sound was chirping birds. The sweet scent of the huge variety of flowers delighted my nose. In one corner raspberries, substantial and juicy-looking, were thriving. A peek through the windows of a glasshouse revealed peppers, tomatoes and chilles.
Priorwood, also free to enter, is the other garden in the centre of Melrose, adjacent to the abbey. Its high walls hide it from view, so it is somewhat of a secret garden and easy to miss. The entrance to it is through a visitor centre and shop where you can buy dried flowers and apples from the gardens.
Priorwood is dedicated to cultivating flowers for the purpose of dried flower arranging. There is also an orchard with about 70 varieties of apples. I loved that you could walk among the trees and take a good look at the growing fruit. One of the apples is called White Melrose and is thought to have been grown by the monks of Melrose Abbey.
This place is so tranquil and pretty that it is crazy to think that it was going to be turned into a car park in the 1970s! Thankfully the National Trust stepped in to save it. Amongst the apple trees there is a bronze sculpture of two doves.
Melrose Rugby Football Club
Rugby has been played at The Greenyards since 1877. It is a lovely ground located right in the centre of the town. It does not have a massive stand and high fences, so you could easily watch some of a game as you wander down the street. Melrose is one of the most prestigious clubs in Scotland; this is where the Rugby Sevens tournament was invented.
The entrance to the club is turned out smartly with yellow doors and window frames, complimented with flower displays.
Famously the home of Robert the Bruce's buried hear, Melrose Abbey is the main visitor attraction in the town. The abbey church, dating from the late 1300s, is a magnificent piece of architecture where the height of the ceiling is immense and difficult to stop looking up at.
The scale is breathtaking, perfectly illustrated by the incredible size of the blocks of stone on the columns.
The detail of the stone carvings is spectacular- the most famous piece is a pig playing bagpipes, but there are plenty of others to look out for.
There is a spiral staircase with a rope banister to grasp. It leads to a viewing platform that allows you to take in the roof of the church and the surrounding countryside.
Melrose is much more than its visitor attractions and it topped the list of best places to live in Scotland because of good schools, transport links and community spirit.
Melrose is also brilliantly situated for nearby attractions that make for great day trips and I will be writing about these in future blog posts.
I am interested to find out if you liked Melrose as much as I did, so please leave a comment below.
There are lots of things to look forward to when you go on holiday, not least the culinary delights. Trying new dishes that you’ve never heard of, sampling the local wines and not worrying about your diet for the next 10 days is always a winner in our eyes! We’ve selected some of the most unique dining experiences worldwide for you to feast your eyes on (see what we did there?). Bon appétit!
1. Secret Dining- Maldives
Stay at the 4* Plus Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort and Spa and discover their dining experiences in the resort’s secret locations – whether it’s dinner beneath the banyan trees, a dinner in the meditation pavilion overlooking the ocean or an in-villa romantic dinner for two, all of the ingredients are locally sourced and prepared in the Chef’s Garden. At the Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort and Spa you can also have menus tailor-made for a truly unique experience.
2. Cacao cuisine – St Lucia
The 4* Plus Boucan By Hotel Chocolat is in a unique location within the cocoa groves of St Lucia’s Rabot Estate and 1,000 feet above the Caribbean sea. Their exclusive Cacao cuisine uses the superb local produce which has made Boucan one of St Lucia’s most popular foodie hotels. Sip a Cacao Bellini as the sun sets and explore the natural sweet and savoury delights of cocoa, with everything from fresh seafood to crisp salads and plentiful fruits.
3. Dine with the fishes – Dubai
The definition of luxury is the Burj Al Arab where multiple, impressive dining locations are on offer. Experience a stunning floor to ceiling aquarium, which sets the backdrop for some of the finest dining you will ever experience. Colourful sea life will swim past your table, as the team of award-winning chefs prepare some of the most delicious dishes in the Middle East. Or alternatively, why not enjoy Tapas on the 24th floor whilst sipping on cocktails created by in-house mixologists.
4.Dine By design – Maldives
Located on Bolifushi Island in the South Male Atoll of the Maldives, the 5* Jumeirah Vittaveli offers a spectacular personalised dining experience at a breath-taking location. Whether you want to dine on a private sandbank or breakfast as the sun rises over the horizon on your own stretch of beach, nothing is too much trouble and the menu is what you make it.
5. Night Bazaar – Thailand
The 4* Plus Tamarind Village Chiang Mai is conveniently located just a short distance from the famous Chiang Mai Night Bazaar. This sprawling night market provides an authentic Thai shopping experience and sells everything from fried bamboo worms to tasty and traditional Thai cuisine. Why not try ‘kantoke’, a platter of meats, vegetables and chilli dips all displayed on a woven rattan tray.
This is a guest post.
Congratulations everyone – we’ve made it to summer! Swimming costumes have been washed and pressed, beach bods have been perfected, and now it’s time to sit back, relax, and enjoy.
That being said, no summer is ever truly complete without a handful of sun-inspired drinks to impress your friends with. With that in mind, here are our four favourite tipples for summer 2018.
1. Moët & Chandon Ice Imperial
At the top list of our best drinks for this summer is Moët & Chandon Ice Imperial champagne. Presented in elegant white, this is the first-ever champagne created primarily to be served over ice, especially when you’re at a summer picnic, barbecue, or garden party. It is a sweeter, lighter, sparkling style of champagne with less dense bubbles that goes down smoothly, providing the perfect refreshment on your summertime.
The champagne is expertly made up of the best Pinot Noir to give it structure and density, Pinot Meunier for a richer and milder mouthfeel, and Chardonnay to add a little touch of refreshing acidity.
To get the most out of this fun and fresh drink, we recommend serving it on a lot of ice or with chopped plums and summer fruits. If you forget to bring the ice along to your summer picnic, don’t worry one bit as you can also drink the champagne as long as it is very chilled to give it the full fruity flavour. And that’s why Moët & Chandon Ice Imperial is a perfect summer drink!
2. Dom Perignon 2009
Dom Perignon is one of the most celebrated champagne brands worldwide, and they have a unique 2009 vintage designed for summer lovers. Well, the Dom Perignon 2009 is an iconic champagne —the first ever vintage to have been released out of a chronological order, meaning it hit the market even before the 2008 vintage.
The 2009 Champagne vintage was created using mature ripe grapefruits, finely chiseled to give a silky texture and one of a kind freshness. It offers a vivacious nose of guava and grapefruit with stone fruits that often burst from your glass right after you’ve poured the drink. We are talking about the white peach and nectarine! Take a sip and you’ll be amazed at the absolutely refreshing taste sensation of this rich fruity tipple as soon as it hits your tongue.
We love this drink because you can partner it with seafood, fish, hard cheese, fresh and citrus salads.
3. NYETIMBER NV Rosé Brut English Sparkling Wine
Nyetimber is a true pioneer, with over 25 years of experience in making some of the finest English sparkling wines you can find on the market today. They’re the first English producer to make sparkling wines exclusively from the popular sought after grape varieties — Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay. NYETIMBER NV Rosé Brut English Sparkling Wine is one of their best, which spent 3 years in the fine lees and includes 2009 as well as 2010 vintages.
It’s one of the delicious wines you’ll ever taste this summer. The wine is made from hand-picked grapes, which are at their peak ripeness. The magnificent character emerges as soon as you open that bottle. On the nose, you’ll be greeted with a superb aroma of red fruit flavours with floral notes anise and lavender. The palate is amazingly creamy with a silky texture and refreshing cherry flavours to retain that sense of tension.
4. Zymurgorium Pink Grapefruit Gin Liqueur
We end our list of the best drinks for this summer with Zymurgorium Pink Grapefruit Gin Liqueur, which is full of flavour& colour and also excellently designed with a balanced tangy taste. Well, the manufacturer uses juniper and 20 other British botanicals along with a dry, crisp gin to produce liqueur that has a well-balanced pink grapefruit taste.
This bottle of gin liqueur can be taken either with or without crushed ice. And for those that love partnering, you too can never go wrong with Zymurgorium Pink Grapefruit Gin Liqueur. It is delicious when partnered with tonic, prosecco, lemonade, or cocktail simply by adding fruitiness.
There you have it! And we wish you a truly happy summer adventure.
Cycling holidays are one of the best ways to see a new destination and really soak up the atmosphere. There are no hot and stuffy vehicles to worry about, you can avoid the traffic and you can explore at your own pace, whether you’re stopping off to join a wine tasting or you want to enjoy the local cuisine. Whether you’re new to the sport or you’re a hardcore cycling enthusiast, these are some of the best countries to check out when planning your summer cycling getaway.
Italy has gorgeous scenery, dotted with coastal views, in-land vineyards and charming villages. The Aeolian Islands are a volcanic archipelago off the coast of Sicily where you can ride the verdant green hills of Lipari, or you may prefer to explore the Dolomites – a mountain range in northern Italy with a varied terrain and unforgettable views. If you don’t mind going uphill, the village of Corvara is well worth a visit which offers up the Sellaronda loop and its selection of elevated passes.
Spain is incredibly popular for cycling holidays as the geography of the country lends itself well to a mix of long climbs and flat-riding for the in-between rest days. It’s a very varied country with several smaller islands to add to the list of possible locations, such as Girona, Calpe and Mallorca. The Costa Blanca and Alicante region is particularly great for cycling – it has a warm year-round climate and a range of lengths and gradients to suit all abilities. Why not look into car hire in Alicante airport to make navigating and exploring easier on your rest days between cycling?
The stunning scenery in South Africa really sets it apart from many other locations and the roads that wind through it are well documented for being great for cycling. Not to mention, the weather makes for a great getaway during the summer months. There’s plenty of sightseeing to take in while you’re in Cape Town, from Table Mountain to the penguin colonies on the beach, as well as coastal cycle routes which offer up vineyards, fruit farms and breath-taking vistas.
A dream for end-to-end cyclists, Vietnam is a beautiful mix of palm-fringed beaches, rolling green landscapes, ancient imperial cities and fantastic cuisine. This is one for cyclists who are looking for a more of a challenge – heading from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi is an experience you’ll never forget. From visiting the port town of Hoi An to taking in the spectacular views of the inimitable Halong Bay and Hanoi’s old quarter, Vietnam is a place that will ignite all the senses.
Situated to the west of Spain, Portugal is becoming increasingly popular for cycling holidays thanks to the range of terrain, great climate and culture to be found here. Cycling through Portugal is the perfect way to get to know this interesting country, particularly the less built-up areas, so you’ll get to experience the vineyards, enchanting villages and fresh Mediterranean cuisine in all their glory.
This is a guest post
Just a 25 minute train journey from Edinburgh and you are deposited onto quiet country roads that feel much further from the city than they are. A four mile cycle and a short hike brings you to a wonderful castle in an isolated location.
Highlights of this Cycling Route:
Take a Train to Gorebridge
Gorebridge is a stop on the Borders Railway. It takes about 25 minutes from Edinburgh Waverley.
When I got off the train I found a small station garden with spring flowers. Nearby is the 'Station Garage' that has a vintage-style sign. It made me imagine that it was the 1930s and there were cars, like Austins and Morris', inside being attended to by mechanics wearing peak caps. Another mark of Gorebridge's past was the house, in the village centre, with the faded 'dairy' sign on it.
Gorebridge has all the hallmarks of a commuter town. It was very quiet because everyone was at work in the city. I cycled passed housing estates, several under construction, presumably to take advantage of the new rail link.
Into the Countryside
It was not long until I found myself on single-track roads, surrounded by fields and views of the Pentland Hills. There were daffodils brightening the verges and sheep in the fields. I sat on the side of the road and ate a croissant. It was utter peace; not one car passed me. I loved it here. Such a short distance from the capital and it was possible to be alone like this. Who would have thought it?
This area has a little network of farm roads that you can explore, so this is great for a quick fix of biking escapism.
A word of warning- there are a lot of hills, but these are compensated for by fun descents.
Speeding to the Castle
One of those descents happens when you get first sight of the castle. You reach the top of a hill then drop down and all of a sudden the majestic castle comes into view, on the right-hand side (check out my video that features this fast descent). It sits in a valley, surrounded by a barren, grassy landscape. The downhill is incredibly fast and you will zoom past this castle view unless you pull the brake levers and slow it down.
The road ended at a field of yellow rapeseed where I turned right to reach the castle. The bike must be left behind as the final approach to the castle is by foot, about 600 meters.
This castle looks mightily impressive and I couldn't stop staring at its imposing walls, turrets and windows. I suppose all Scottish castles look pretty amazing, but there was something about this one that really struck me. It had presence. When you dream of a ruined Scottish Castle it probably looks something like this and you presume it to be somewhere deep within the highlands, not this close to the capital city. This isolated location, so close to Edinburgh, makes this a special experience.
I walked up to the walls and put my hands on them. They felt sturdy, but soft. This is sandstone and is easier for stonemasons to carve. The stone carving is one of the standout features of this castle.
In the courtyard the columns supporting the archways are stunning and look like something you would find in an abbey cloister. The most distinctive feature is the diamond-carved wall that looks like something you would see in a 1970s shopping centre, but was actually very stylish in the late sixteenth century. It was installed by the Earl of Bothwell who had seen an Italian palace with a similar design.
The castle has a very special staircase. It is straight. 'Big deal!', I hear you say. Well, look at the stairs in any Scottish castle and the chances are that it is spiral. Crichton was the first castle in Scotland to have a straight staircase.
When it comes to Scottish castles there is one question that always comes up. Does it have a connection with Mary Queen of Scots? And, yes, Crichton does! She attended a wedding here.
The castle was first built by the Crichtons in the 14th century. They were an influential family- William Crichton was Chancellor of Scotland. When ownership of the castle passed to the Earl of Bothwell this is when the extravagances like the diamond wall were added. He was also responsible for the building that is adjacent to the castle.
I thought that this other building was a chapel, but I was surprised to discover that it is a stable. It is so elegant that it is hard to believe this was a mere home for horses. Look up at the horseshoe shaped doorway. Have you ever seen such elaborate decoration on a stable? The Earl of Bothwell wanted the world to know that he was wealthy enough to lavish attention on his stables.
Crichton Collegiate Church
At the start of the walking path that leads to the castle there is a gorgeous church, also built by the Crichtons. Collegiate churches were commonly established by devoted wealthy families in order to have a team of priests praying for their souls. There were about 40 such churches in Scotland. In 1449 the Crichton family built this church and paid for a provost, eight priests, two choirboys and a sexton to work in it.
There was beautiful cherry blossom in the churchyard and the door to the church had ironmongery in the shape of a thistle. It was locked, but a man appeared and invited me in. "The choir are about to start rehearsing, but come in."
I was immediately impressed by the windows, "Yes," said my host. "It's very well endowed with stained glass for a church in the middle of nowhere."
The height of the ceiling is incredible because I did not expect this from how small the church looks from the outside. It gives it the stature of a cathedral.
The kind man gave me a newsletter to take away, "this is what we're about." I read about the services and concerts, including one that was part of the Edinburgh International Festival. There was also a visit from one of Britain's leading lichenologists who had discovered 160 different species of lichen on the church and the gravestones!
Coffee at Vogrie Country Park
There is no cafe at Crichton Castle, but there is a place nearby. Vogrie Country Park is just 2.8 miles away. I took the road back the way I came, so this meant a steep uphill then a howling downhill. I used the single-track roads as far as I could to avoid using the the B6372. This meant more uphills, but the views of the Pentland Hills were simply stunning. I saw a rabbit scamper across the road and a deer hiding in the trees.
The cafe is inside Vogrie House. This is a magnificent Baronial building and there are some original architectural features to lookout for whilst you have your coffee, such as the carved faces on the roof beams.
The park and the cafe are very much child friendly, so be prepared for lots of noise! There is a children's soft pay area in the cafe. There is a good menu and I have to say that the Malteser slice was the best I ever tasted- it had a layer of caramel goo that was spectacular.
I had a walk around the park. There are ponds, woods and lots of bright flowers. There is even a miniature railway (open only on Sundays).
There was a short, heavy rainfall, but afterwards it felt so fresh and the sun came out. I love that after rain feeling, like the place has just had a good clean. I think it is a similar feeling to crawling into a bed with brand new clean sheets.
Leaving the park I cycled 3/4 mile down a forest trail to Newlandrig. The trees and plants sparkled like silver after the rain. It was magical. This path meant that I could avoid the B6372 road for a bit, but once on this road it was fine. The traffic volume was average, but newer cyclists may not be comfortable with this road. It is about 2 miles to get back to Gorebridge Station from the park.
For more cycle journeys in Midlothian head to my Edinburgh and Midlothian page.
For many cyclists, Glasgow is considered to be one of the most cycle-friendly cities in the world. Using bike routes like the Red Tunnel, more people are navigating the city on two wheels and getting healthier at the same time. If only its infrastructure could finally catch up with the growing number of regular cyclists in the city, then we would see a huge shift in how people travel. But although Glasgow still needs to build more bike paths, there are already large swathes of the city that can be comfortably traversed on a bike.
For instance, the Strathclyde Business Park cycling route to Hampden Park takes you through scenic and safe roads that run through the heart of Glasgow. As with many bike routes, it’s best to start in the morning, especially since that means there are less cars at the route’s starting point. From here, it’s a moderately difficult ride to Hampden Park, a 10.25-mile journey that takes around an hour.
From Strathclyde Business Park, head southeast through Phoenix Crescent and turn right just before the exit to the Bellshill Bypass – a busy road that you definitely do not want to bike on. Instead, take the wide path to the right, just before the bypass. This part of the route offers great views of Glasgow’s green suburban city centre. Head south until you hit the roundabout, from there keep heading south via James Street and Melford Road, past the industrial estate until you reach New Edinburgh Road.
Once on New Edinburgh Road, follow it for several miles to the west. To the left you will see some wonderful views of Glasgow, while on the right the small hills of the beautiful Viewpark Gardens. Another advantage of the westbound bike ride in the morning is that for most of the ride you will face the same direction as the sun. This area is where you’ll bike across many of Glasgow’s hidden gems. Head west until the A721 becomes the A74 through Glasgow’s residential neighbourhoods, and then turn left onto the A763.
From there go south under the M74 and through Buckingham Park, after which take the Clydesmill Road to the west, past views of the River Clyde, and under a railway bridge until you hit Main Street. Keep following this road west until it becomes Prospecthill Road, and from there you will be able to see Hampden Park to the left, the historic 50,000-seat venue is also the Scottish national football stadium. Hampden Park has a rich history that makes it one of Europe’s major sporting stadiums, and it’s surrounded by bike-friendly paths, local restaurants, and lots of views of Glasgow’s best architecture. It’s without doubt the perfect place to end a cycle ride.
Glasgow has a public hire scheme that provides bikes at 53 locations across the city. For anyone who wants to see Glasgow at its finest, on a bike is the best way to go.
Book Review: Only In Edinburgh. A Guide to Unique Locations, Hidden Corners and Unusual Objects by Duncan J.D. Smith
When exploring Edinburgh by bicycle, foot, bus or any other means then this book is the ideal companion. It reveals many of Edinburgh's secrets and hidden gems, so is much more interesting than a standard guide. There is a lifetime of exploring contained within these pages. The text is highly engaging and full of fascinating facts.
My initial impression of this book was that it was quite text heavy compared to the usual guide book format of recommendations, listings and maps. However, the text is highly readable and full of riveting information about Edinburgh. It keeps you turning the pages and wanting to know more. What comes across is that there is so much more to Edinburgh than the castle, Princess Street Gardens and the art galleries. Even if you have lived in Edinburgh for many years there are things in this book that will be new to you.
The book has 103 experiences. It does cover some well-known attractions, like the castle, but it explores the lesser-known items, the hidden gems within these attractions. But the main focus of the book is on places and experiences that are more unusual and will take you off the beaten path. Some of my favourite experiences are the entry on Victorian swimming pools, the historic pub crawl, the tour of Edinburgh's independent bookshops, the story of Edinburgh' Jews and a visit to the home of the world's first millionaire (Lauriston Castle).
There is an almost endless number of adventures that this book will take you on, including a search for the replica of an American Wild West Street, seeking out a Cold War-era bunker on Corstorphine Hill or admiring 'Edinburgh's Sistine Chapel'. You could plan your weekends around discovering something different in the city and easily plot a cycle route to get there.
Each entry in the book will have you admiring the level of research that must have been involved and you will love sharing your newfound knowledge with friends and family.
Although this book is largely about places to see, I loved the fact that it also provides suggestions of places to enjoy food and drink. And these are not the standardised listings that you get in run-of-the-mill guidebooks, but, again, unusual and unique. For example, entry 14 is titled 'Sustenance in Strange Places' and informs the reader about a number of restaurants located in buildings with notable histories and/or interiors. Another entry gives the lowdown on the cafes that J.K. Rowling visited when writing Harry Potter. There is even a page about the former police boxes that have been turned into takeaway coffee outlets. Or how about going for a deep-fried haggis supper from Ian Rankin's favourite takeaway?
'Only in Edinburgh' is a great example of turning the guide book format on its head and making it into something much more readable and inspiring. The author (Duncan J.D.Smith) is The Urban Explorer and has given a similar treatment to books about many other cities, including Berlin, Paris and Prague.
For those who are exploring Edinburgh by bicycle the book brings a new twist to your journeys. You could pick a selection of the experiences and then use Google maps to plot your cycle route and don't forget to include one of the eating or drinking places so that you have somewhere for refreshments.
Some of the entries in this book feature in my blog: 10 Hidden Gems in Edinburgh
You can buy this book from Amazon by clicking on this image:
My name is Colin Baird and I want to see all of Scotland by bicycle. Follow my blog on Facebook: